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To rate and review, sign in. United States - English. Open in new tab. Sign me up Stay informed about special deals, the latest products, events, and more from Microsoft Store. Has to be an air leak. The vacuum gauge Ts into the fuel line. Leak identified at the connection to the gauge and resealed. Last we reinstalled the fuel pump and boom we are back in a properly motorized condition. Next day we escape the madding crowd for an excursion to the major relatively village on the other side of the island. We need local cash and a Sim card for internet. We go to shore and seek out transport.
Joe with a truck will provide. Much of the way is definitely a bush road. As we travel everyone shouts greetings as we go by and offers us their best smiles. These people have way better more teeth than the Fijians. We pass a number of other trucks and note they all sport flags of various countries.
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And then they laugh. We fly down the dirt road through dense jungle. One of the other passengers in the truck tells us there are 20, people on the island. And there are 24 different dialects. He fills in a few details about the Volcano just as the jungle we have been traveling through is replaced by a vast volcanic desert. Are we impressed by Tanna? Lenakel town has a small produce market with first class product.
We bring some home. Find Sim card shop. Our Tonic water has been getting lonely. Kat finds a truck sporting a German flag. They take this seriously. It is Bislama, the official language of Vanuatu. If you look at it phonetically it can be decyphered. Our bums will be happy when the ride is over. School just let out and we are treated to many calls of Go France Go! As happy as these folks are they should live forever.
One the way back we stop at the volcano for a tour. Hike is coming so I went for shoes and socks as well. The Tannaans showed us some dancing and song. They did a fair bit of stomping which reverberated through the black volcanic sand, and up from the sand into your chest. From time to time the volcano would also speak, similarly shaking your bones. Booms and shrieks of steam escaping the bowels of the earth complimented the songs and dancing profoundly.
The WorldARC comprise much of the audience tonight. My bum knows fear. The jungle fades as we enter a lunar landscape. Hiking up to the ridge the ridge we look down into… The Fires of Mt Doom! The Booms and steam venting are louder now and are a great soundtrack for the occasional shower of lava that Mt Yasur sends into the sky.
With each boom you can watch the shockwave propagate through the clouds of steam. The visual is caused by the air pressure increase the shockwave delivers. Puts the micro droplets in the cloud back into a vapor state briefly. The vapor becomes cloud again after the wave passes. Like you are watching the sound of Boom! After the tour we catch our truck, they waited for us. Back to Port Resolution.
Sarah runs a small restaurant in the village. She is closed but gets word we are looking for dinner and opens for us. And we were hungry too. Next we find our dinghy in the dark. Find deep water and we are on our way to STW. But now to find her. Seems I neglected to leave the anchor light on. Not that hard really. As we relax in the cockpit we note that the neighbor boat is swinging dangerously close and there is a collision with STW!
This is one of the WorldARC boats that arrived after us. I thought the fools anchored too close and the consequences are manifest. As there is no one on that boat we reanchor STW. Then sleep joins the crew. We are anchored with Phil from Parotia off the beach at Somosomo town on Taveuni island.
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This location does not have fittings for my tanks. And they have butane only on which my outboard does not run well at all. They recommend I check Savusavu. They had the fittings but still butane only. Have to wait until Vuda point on the South island, Viti Levu.
We have enough fuel to get by. Back to town to get supplies. Some groceries, some veggies, some beer. Taxi back to the beach and load the dinghy. Nancy thinks that sounds like too much sailing for her taste and would prefer to relax on Taveuni island for a bit and meet us in Vuda Point after the Lau leg. Nancy and I taxi up the coast and check into a really cool place. But they have coconut issues.
There a dozen bungalows on a hill looking over the Somosomo channel between Taveuni and Vanua Levu. We met Seamus and Sarah. A lot Irish in a fun way. Phil will be traveling with us on his boat Parotia. We make it to the other side of Taviuni. Anchored in a quiet cove that turned out to be fairly well influenced by ocean swell. The next day we go ashore and Rajan is waiting for us. And we are in the middle of a sparsely populated zone. He tells us he was born on Taviuni and lived all of his 58 years here.
The first falls are a short hike in. Great to swim in but we passed for the moment. There are some cruise ship leftovers from the small cruise ship nearby. We had passed quite a few of their passengers on the trail hiking back down to their transport. Some were quite ancient and still doing it. The second falls are further on and the path more challenging. Third falls had the best swimming hole but all were awesome. Phil is a bird watching guy. There was one sort of bird he came to Taveuni to see.
The photo really is blurry. On the hike we saw two pairs and noted a nest as well. Phil got photos and video of them and their nest. He was in birder heaven. After a few hours of that we came down and there was Rajan. Thanks for waiting man! If you ever need a ride to Tavoro falls ask for Rajan. Tell him 2 meter Chris from Spill the Wine sent you. Rajan takes us back to our boats and after dinner we napped until midnight. Then we got up and headed out the channel making our way towards the Lau group. Wind was pretty good but not quite in the right direction the whole trip so we motored a bit as well.
We investigated a small island on the way pretty close to our destination. Cool reef, nice beach, no people. But the pass was marginally deep. I need 2 meters and it was barely there. We carry on to the anchorage at Bay of Islands. Phil captures Spill The Wine at anchor with his drone camera. The setting was magazine cover spectacular. In fact I spotted our anchor spot on a Fiji Magazine back cover.
Very interesting topography here. Like the moon with water. Kat and I put on silly hats and set off to frighten the neighbors. A couple invited us to movie night on the foredeck of their catamaran. We met Hugh and Olga there and toured their catamaran after the movie. The following day we note a number of new boats in the anchorage. A rally called the WorldARC has arrived. We joined a group of about 25 of them to go visit a half submerged cave with bats. Pretty cool but I have to say I have become quite unfamiliar with crowds like this.
Not a big deal but I noticed. Phil and I dinghy over to the village of Daliconi to pay our respects. If I have not mentioned it before if you visit an inhabited peripheral island a gift of kava root is traditional and we bring some. We offer the chief the amazing opportunity to have a goofy eye Dr and crew take a look at his population to see if they need spex.
I think there are people living in the village. We only have reading glasses but that is the most frequent problem that causes people to be interested in an exam. Phil and I dinghy back to our boats. Making it hard to…. Into fwd, reverse, and back. As it happens this failed in a very narrow shallow pass. So we really could have walked home.
We figure out a way to make a lever out of a bailer. That night after fabulous chicken burritos and some libations I was able to recruit an eye team. Olga convinced me to try stand up paddle boarding. A brilliant way to see the anchorage. And my legs were only a little sore afterwards. The clinic went well. Mostly glasses related concerns and one foreign body removal. Well there was a reason. One of the village elders, Israel, invited us back the next day for dinner. Kat and I brought Spill the Wine over in the afternoon. Extracting ourselves from the anchorage proves interesting.
Another friendly reef caresses the keel. Not on my chart. There was a recommended course line that Kat had loaded. Too soon old too late smart. No damage as we were going slow. Lobster with spinach and kasava greet us. She lived in the US for much of her life. She is moving back to the village now. She was born here. As her English is flawless she is able to tell us quite a bit about the mechanics of life in Fiji. Tomorrow a truck will come and take people to the larger village of Lomolomo for supplies. We sign up to go and head back to the boat. Many thanks to our very generous hosts!
Besides being tired from too much sun today, the invisible mosquitoes get about half a pint. Plenty of time to relax with the rest of the folks waiting for the truck. It will be here sooner. But right on Fiji Time. Time has a different meaning here. Quite a few villagers are going.
The chief on my left napping and Israel among them. Maybe the truck holds And off we go. The road is mostly dirt. Steeper bits are paved with two strips of concrete, one for each tire. You could say lumpy ride, but the scenery was very interesting. There were forests of some sort of strait tall evergreen tree. Now the ones that remain vertical are dead and branchless. I have to think these were an introduced species. They seem quite unsuited to the cyclone zone.
When we get to town the post shop is the first stop. Supposedly where you can get cash from a debit card. The cash is supposed to arrive from somewhere by noon. Fiji noon… Could be awhile. This becomes an inconvenience later. We catch the next truck and head back to the boat. Say goodbye to Israel and company and dinghy back to Spill the Wine. We expect winds close to 20 knots. So Kat thoroughly ties down the kayak on the foredeck. I deflate the dinghy, bag it and it gets tied down to the foredeck. We had thought to go to Falanga. That was enough zoo at our anchorage yesterday.
There is an island called Namuka nearby that we can reach in daylight hours that looks like it might have a passage through its reef. But it is hard to find out for sure. We had to motor a bit as our destination is quite directly up wind. But we arrive to what appears to be an uninhabited island.
Cove with dramatic limestone shoreline. A couple of beaches. Sand bottom 12 feet under Spill the Wine. After we anchor and start to unwind a fishing boat shows up. Not a lot of English happening here but they gave us some kind of fish. The next morning we met Atu. He motored through the cove with one of his daughters. He offers to take us around the corner to the village and introduce us to the chief. Turns out Chief died as of the beginning of the year. Voice of Chief is still with us. Kind of like a vice president.
He welcome us and tells us we are the first Yacht to come this season. We present him with the kava and offer to do some eye work at his village. Seems quite open to our project. The Methodist Church next door is having services. Atu is 7th day Adventist. They worship in a different building on a different day. Religion is a bigger part of life in Fiji than I am used to seeing.
We stop at the local school to use their internet. They have English words painted in the rafters and elsewhere. It will become their second language. Schools where I come from use bells for lunch etc. A traditional large tree trunk carved into a drum. Way more fun than a bell. I should have taken photos of the students darn it! We encounter some women making Tapa. Made by hammering wood fibers pulled from just under the bark of a particular tree. Further on they are processing copra. They dry the coconuts and extract the oil from the coconut meat.
This is a large industry. Coconut oil is sold in every Fiji market and shop it seems. This is a poor photo but you can see how water is collected from the roofs and diverted into a cistern beyond the tree. No fresh ground water on this island. There are no land vehicles of any kind here and if there were, washing them would not be popular. A building with round ends is less likely to blow away in a cyclone. This building is built like that and is one of the older structures in the village.
Recent buildings are square.
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If you would like to bathe there are two choices. One on either end of the village. Which contain pools that are a bit salty but less than the sea. They have been in use as long as people have lived on this island. No one was able to tell me just how long that might have been. There is electricity from a diesel generator from 6 to 10 pm. But we pass a house that has its own generator.
They have a freezer. The fishermen store their fish here and when the supply ship comes the fish enter the supply chain for the main island. Atu guided us down the trail to the cove where we anchored. Along the way is his garden. Sweet potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant. Further on is the coconut grove planted by his grandfather. He tells me that all the coconut trees on the island were planted.
He shows us how to knock the fresh ones out of the tree. He shows us a trick for tying coconuts together in pairs to make them easier to carry. Spill the Wine needs a coconut machete. Next day Atu comes to pick us up for the eye clinic at We head for the village against the wind and waves. And there is plenty of both even inside the reef. But there is no hurry. My hair still looks weird. But there were probably 50 patients like at the last village.
There usually are not many nearsighted ones, but maybe a few more than usual in this village. I did not bring many nearsighted spex but was able to give a few of what I had out. We spent the afternoon snorkeling. Atu took us to their Clam Garden. The villagers have collected giant clams outside the reef and brought them into the lagoon.
And they are as big as good sized dogs. Without legs I suppose. And they have begun a program of propagation. After clinic we Atu takes us back to Spill the Wine. I sat on my transom to remove the husk from one of the coconuts with a cleaver. Success there leaves me with fresh husk debris all over the swim step. I learn that the juice from the husk leaves brown stains on my fiberglass, aieee! There will be some boat polishing in my near future. Check the reef under the dinghy! A good day for a dinghy ride up the north shore of the island and look for caves.
The NW shoreline is dramatically vertical rising to perhaps feet. Those coconuts did not get put there by the sea. Some ambitious hoser planted them. There is a beach protected by isolated rocks whose strange erosion patterns make it possible to imagine that they might be lots of different things.
Notice the shoreline and lots of the rocks are undercut by the water. The root patterns on these trees are amazing! And apparently need climbing. I hope Kat never grows up. We are thinking of our friend Oceana just here. She is a climber too. Kat snorkels and declared our own anchorage to have superior snorkeling. We round up some plastic beach trash and a machete I found as well. Just when I was thinking STW needed a machete. I should have asked for a not so rusty one… Our ride north was against the wind and waves. The ride back to STW is much smoother! As we approach the anchorage we spot Atu.
He was planning to join us and take us ashore to hunt for coconut crabs. We find a couple. And yes they do make their living eating coconuts.
Atu tells us they get as large as 5lbs. Smaller ones are more common. The life cycle is such that hunting coconut crabs is not terribly sustainable. Their habitat is a small fraction of this 6 x 2 mile island. And there are people. Many South Pacific islands no longer have coconut crabs. Overfishing, overforesting, over consuming, overpopulating. Color us all a problem. Thursday we have invited Atu to bring his family on board and Kat will make pizza for them all.
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That will be Atu, his wife and her sister, and 5 children. We planned a three hour tour but there is no wind. And I forgot how it goes with children. A little bit of swell goes a long, wrong, way. It was not too messy but it was time to head back shortly after we started. This is a berry as big as my thumb.
You peel it and chew. It seems unlikely that this stringy mass will turn into gum but it does. And it sticks to your teeth. Kat has a trick ball that bounces on the water. The kid on the right had the best attitude on the planet. Atu gives us a parting gift of some fruit and priceless leafy greens.
He gets to take some leftover pizza back home. I call this a Fiji briefcase. A woven bag from palm leaves. Its what they used before those wonderful plastic bags that are choking the Earth were invented. Looks like the Captain has some sort of rash? Or is that a mysterious tuber Atu gave us? We sat down with Atu to review our week.
The village would like to attract more yachts. They currently export coconuts copra , coconut oil and frozen fish. They just launched a program to create a clam garden of giant clams. There are now about of them in rows in one part of their lagoon. But really, a nice reef with giant clams as a natural part of it would be more fun. When we arranged to have Atu tour us around I explained that we were short of cash. My next adventure on the big island will be to send him some Fiji dollars via the post office. Like Western Union, just local.
This proves to be pretty easy. They are puzzling over what sort of handicrafts might appeal to yachts that might provide income for the island. Some of the inhabitants have worked away from this island in the tourism industry and have seen this sort of trade in action. Cruise ship passengers are more likely to buy things to take home. Yacht dwellers try to avoid collecting things. Boat gets full soon enough. So shelf stuff is not what will bring them or impress them. We recommended they provide opportunities for experiences. Maybe a dinner at the village cooked in their Polynesian earth oven.
Maybe the clam garden. Although it kind of did look like a clam parking lot. This is Big Deal. If they fatten up their gardens so they have veggies to spare they will be the most popular island in Fiji. Off the main islands veggies are home grown. So for traveling yachts there is no access to that. And we miss our veggies. But number one asset is really the communal culture of the village. And the friendly nature of all the citizens that live there. Turning Namuka I-Lao into a theme park and a casino would be the end of all that. It would no longer be a unique place to visit.
Tie the kayak to the rail. Drop the fishing spear point. Fail to find it. Clean the dinghy hull of growth. Hoist dinghy onto foredeck. Put into storage bag. The handheld depth sounder got water into it. This is my second one of these. The first one died of water ingress too. Tear that up and dehydrate it with fingers crossed. Make waypoints and route. Load same into chart plotter. After a nap we are up at midnight and weighing anchor.
This should have us arriving at our Kadavu island destination about noon in a day and a half. Always best to have light to navigate a new destination. Making your way through a reef pass, precise navigation is critical. And as we approach the chart plotter loses its fix and does not know where we are. And so it is not able to guide us through the pass with the precision necessary to avoid the big crunch in this case.
Before you deploy the liferaft I should tell you that Kat has spent quite a bit of time getting acquainted with OpenCPN. She brings her laptop to the cockpit and we carry on through the pass. Our course is plotted for Kadavu island. Should take 36 hrs. Kat takes the first watch and I take over at She takes over shortly after dawn. The chart plotter has been misbehaving for quite awhile. Raymarine E vintage for all you marine electronics geeks out there. Infrequent loss of GPS position.
Until it craps out in the pass. Really need to do something about this. Of interest I was talking to some friends recently who have the same equipment on their boat that I do. And theirs is failing exactly like mine. There is something going on here…. Checking connections, rearranging the connections, updating operating software for the various components in the system. Problem slowly becoming more frequent. Maybe I should interrogate some industry people that have more experience with the equipment in question. They all seemed to lean towards the data networks, there are four, as being the most likely source of trouble.
Good place to start. There is nothing more challenging than tracking down a problem that occurs monthly.
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But this one started monthly and got worse to the point that it pretty reliably reboots the chart plotter every 3 minutes. Now maybe we can figure it out. Kat and I review the behavior and what to investigate. How to sort out device problem vs network related problem? I disconnected the different networks one by one.
And it still crashed. Houston, I think we have a device problem. Kat has a strong software background and starts poking into the submenus of the device. That might be a problem. Execute factory reset, delete all data, and the old bugger performs normally. Immediately anyway, I know better. Same tack all day at 7 knots, reefed main and jib. Never mind noon arrival. Could be more like dawn. We reduce sail further to cut more speed and control the degree of heel. Finally got it down to less than 6 kts.
Shortly after 2am my watch was done and Kat took over. I got 15 minutes of sleep and she wakes me up because there is a strange navigation bouy off our starboard. Flashing white and red. No bow or stern lights. I am totally not in love with this development. The last time I had a reef to my port and left a lighted marker to starboard I ran into the reef. Go around the mystery mark leaving it on my port side.
Almost certainly we are not close to the reef. My phone chart plotter says no. Atlas for Fiji Mariners app says no. But we leave the mark to Port just to be sure. A few miles later we see another white and red flashing mark just like the first. In my coursework for my Coast Guard boat captain license, I recall flashing to be reserved for navigation marks. But this we are almost certain is not those things.
Later we discover that the most likely thing is a drift fishing apparatus of some kind. We leave the second one to starboard. Kat takes over and I get some sleep. After a few hours I get up and the wind is allowing STW to sail. I take over watch and Kat is due for a nap. I work us towards the pass we need and we tool into a cove where there is a village.
And a guy shows up driving the school boat. We invite Issac on board for a beverage and he ties alongside. He tells us many things. Number one being that his village is not the one to ask for permission to tour the manta spot. We head for there. We look over at Draviuni and there is a cruise ship there. The idea of going there is totally not appealing.
On the way we stopped at a place where we had planned to anchor. There is a lot of wind there and the seas are rough. We will not be anchoring there. I ask Kat to check the cruising schedule of the cruise ship on the internet. She does and it says they sail at 6 pm. We can live with that. We sail up and anchor. The last cruise ship shuttle is loading and gone. This village has a proper floating dock on their beach so the cruise ship shuttle can land.
Makes it easy for me. I walk up from the dock and a lot of the village is under a palapa singing and drinking Kava. They just kissed a cruise ship load of tourists good bye and are relaxing and here comes one more. I find the chief, give him the Kava root I brought and ask permission to tour and anchor. He says sure, welcome and show me your cruising permit. Nobody asks for that.
Back to Spill the Wine. They are in the middle of making an earth oven to cook some chicken but set us on the right path. We hike up to the top of the island. Early on the trail we meet Sailasa and Sefania. Sailasa lives here and Sefania is visiting from the central mainland. There is ground water here. Not so for many of the islands. And they have a well and a pump to bring the water to a central water tank.
They power on the unit and it sounds like the pump is choking on debris. I really want to tear it apart but we leave tomorrow. No time for that. Next we walk down to the beach. Large recycle collection from the village. That resort leased the neighbor island they are built on from this village for 99 years. The view is predictably awesome. You can see the reef behind Kat. Back down we come on the steep trail. We meet Sailasa and Sefania again. Talk a bit more then invite them on to Spill the Wine for a snorkel this afternoon where the manta rays might be feeding.
Anchor in the tidal current and head off in the dinghy. Every body in the water. Lots of soft coral. He did not promote himself as an experienced snorkeler. Never done it in fact. So skills he needs to work on. But he keeps his cool amid the challenges. Sucking salt water through his snorkel.
Really inefficient fin technique. He takes advice well and none of this gets to him. Later I learn he has never been on a sailboat before. Kava session was fun. There were 14 men there. I brought my guitar, Kat her ukelele. The instruments got passed around a lot. Ricky has mine in the second photo. But we play very quietly. Making music somehow is considered work and forbidden.
But drinking Kava is ok. The next morning we go ashore to get a chicken and some eggs. Tomasi meets us and we get 30 eggs. But the wire connections really look corroded. I disassemble them and clean them. Kat looks it over and wonders if the alternator coils need to be wound with new copper wire. Next start the motor and check the terminals for voltage, amp flow. As I prepare to do this, the coils start to arc to the case. Conclusion is alternator is dead and maybe rewinding it with new copper really would help it. We follow her and she and her friend Unaisi treat us to tea and biscuits with butter and jam.
We invite them back to Spill the Wine for a tour and eggs. We have plenty of eggs now. We pick up a frozen chicken on the way. I row everybody out to Spill the Wine. The girls were having a blast.
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They had never been on board a yacht before. The night before I had mentioned to the group that I could take a rider to Vuda Point marina the following day. Now Anasa and Pete are on board and both want to go. Ok then, they are both going. Pete brings a small bag and Anasa brings nothing but the clothes in his back. Life is simple in Fiji.
On the horizon I see a large catamaran approaching our anchorage. We met them in Bay of Islands Lau group. Unfortunately after a brief Hello, Spill The Wine has to get moving. We want to catch up with Nancy in Vuda Point. Our new crew has a lot of boat experience. Sailboat experience not so much. But they learn fast. Minutes after we depart we see a fishing boat chasing after us. She left her flip-flops on Spill the Wine and has nicked out to recover them. We navigate the lagoon with our new crew providing local knowledge.