There are many different styles of Spur-pruned training methods used for everything from table grapes high production to fine wine low production. Spurs the stub of a cane that contains buds are generally easier to prune and certain training systems, such as goblet method, are ideal for areas prone to drought. Spur pruning is a more traditional training method that is known to produce outstanding old vine wines.
All established wine growing regions tend to adopt a specific training method based on the idiosyncrasies of their climate and terroir. So, while some experts may tell you that the Guyot training method is better than the Pergola method, it really depends on the grape variety and region. Here are some interesting things to observe the next time you see a vineyard:. Tall vine trunks lift the grapes higher above the ground to increase airflow and increase sun exposure, which reduces the probability of fungal infections.
This training method is more common in cooler climates with high moisture. On soils low in fertility, grapes grow slowly and produce low yields; on extremely fertile soils, vines usually grow excessively and the crop matures late. Fine, tight soils that contain much clay are not suitable for grape production. Regardless of soil type, the drainage must be good.
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Impervious layers of clay or caliche closer than 5 feet 1. Unless drip irrigation is to be used, land for a vineyard should be leveled and disked before plants are set. Spacing depends upon the cultivar, the training system, and the type of machinery used in the vineyard. Vinifera grapes trained to the head system are planted 7 to 9 feet 2. In cordon or cane systems, vines are planted 6 to 8 feet apart 1. The distance between rows depends on the trellis used.
In commercial vineyards, adequate space must be provided for roads at the ends and sides of the vineyard and for driveways through the center of the planting to give ready access for harvesting and cultural operations. Twenty to 25 feet 6. In home plantings, grape plants may be spaced closer, provided there is adequate room to prune and thin the grapes and to control insects and disease. A 6- to 8-foot 1. The general types of grapes grown in New Mexico are vinifera, American V. Vinifera grapes, also called "wine grapes," have skins that adhere firmly to the pulp. These grapes require mild climates with long, hot, dry growing seasons and moderate winter temperatures.
In New Mexico, they should be grown only in the southern and southeastern parts of the state. California grows only vinifera grapes. American grapes are cold hardy and do well in many areas of northern New Mexico and at higher elevations where vinifera grapes are not well adapted. Many American grape cultivars become chlorotic in alkaline soils unless grafted to tolerant rootstocks.
The hot, dry climate and alkaline soils of southern New Mexico are not conducive to the production of most American grape cultivars. Commercial grape juice, grape concentrate, and grape jelly come almost exclusively from American grapes. Some American cultivars are sold as table or dessert grapes, and some are seedless.
Growing Grapes in New Mexico
Certain American grapes are used for making varietal wines, but usually they are blended with V. However, new varieties developed in the eastern states, such as 'Cayuga White', show promise for making good quality wines.
The third group of grapes grown in New Mexico are hybrids of the American and European cultivars. American hybrids are generally considered to be crosses between the cultivated American-type grape having some inheritance of V. French hybrids are crosses between the wild American grape primarily V.
French hybrids and American hybrids combine some of the cold hardiness and disease resistance of V. Some of these hybrids may be grown in areas not adapted to vinifera production, such as northern New Mexico. French hybrids are generally used for making wine, but some are good for juice or table use. Grafted vines are more vigorous than own-rooted vines.
Order plants a year ahead of planting to be sure of obtaining the cultivars you want. Request delivery for January or February. Get virus-free plants, if possible. If the young vines are to be planted immediately upon arrival, unpack them and keep the roots damp until they are set.
If planting is to be delayed, bury the plants in a furrow deep and wide enough to hold the roots and most of the upper portion; keep them moist. A wet burlap sack placed over the tops aids in preventing growth in the event of warm temperatures. At planting, prune vines to one cane with two buds. Set the plants slightly deeper than they grew in the nursery, in holes wide enough to hold the roots without crowding.
Pack soil slightly and apply 2 to 4 gallons 7.
In training a young vine, the grower wants to develop a single strong shoot with several well-placed laterals to form a permanent framework. Some of the vine's crop potential during early years is sacrificed to obtain a strong, well-shaped vine as inexpensively and as early as possible. After young vines have been pruned at planting, they are not pruned again until the following spring. Just before growth begins the second year, select the strongest cane and tie it to a stake to form a straight trunk.
Remove all other canes.
See what is happening
From this point, training depends upon the system you select. Three of the most common are the head, cordon, and cane four-arm Kniffin is one example of a cane system. This system is designed primarily for vinifera and a few hybrid cultivars. Set a post 2 x 2 inches or larger 5 cm x 5 cm beside the vine. The post should be 30 to 36 inches cm above the ground.
If the selected cane seems weak the second spring, cut it back to two buds. If it is vigorous, do not cut it back. Tie the cane and the future shoot that is to form the trunk to the post. Remove all lateral shoots. When the shoot is within 6 inches 15 cm of the top of the post, cut off the terminal to encourage laterals to form the head. The third spring, prune the canes back to short spurs with two to five buds. Each succeeding spring, repeat this pruning procedure.
As the head develops, you will have to cut out some spurs to prevent overproduction. This system is also designed for vinifera and hybrid cultivars. It requires a two-wire trellis, with the lower wire 20 to 40 inches cm above the ground and an upper wire 14 inches 36 cm above the lower one to support the shoots. In vineyards under drip irrigation, an extra wire is usually placed below the first trellis wire to support the drip irrigation line. In the second spring, train the vines as you would for the head system, except head back the cane or shoot when it reaches the lower wire.
Select two laterals and train them along the lower wire. The third spring, head the two canes back to about five buds each. These form the permanent arms of the cordon and should be gradually extended to a length of 18 to 24 inches cm each. Each spring, prune the canes or shoots that grow from the cordon back to two buds each.
Remove all growth from the underside of each cordon. About five upright shoots two buds each should be allowed to grow on each permanent arm. The four-arm Kniffin is a good cane system used for American varieties, most hybrids, and vinifera cultivars such as 'Thompson Seedless' and 'Black Monukka'. Install a two-wire trellis, with the lower wire 3 to 3. At the beginning of the second spring, tie the cane or shoot to a stake. When the shoot reaches the lower wire, head it back to force laterals.
Train two of these, one on each side of the vine, along the wire. Select an upright shoot and tie it to the stake above the lower wire. When it reaches the upper wire, head it back to force two laterals and train them along the upper wire. Weak varieties may require two years to reach the upper wire. In the third spring, shorten the four canes arms to four to six buds each. Avoid heavy production at this time by leaving fewer buds or by removing some flowers.
In the fourth spring, select one cane growing from each of the four arms and tie these along the wires. Shorten these canes to seven to eight buds each. A strong vine could produce mature fruit from four eight-bud canes. Monitor for ground squirrels year round, even in winter, especially during midmorning when they feed most actively.
Monitor within the crop field during routine activities.
Soils and Their Preparation
Mid morning is usually the best time of day to observe squirrel activity. When even one or two ground squirrels are present in or immediately adjacent to the crop field, be prepared to take action. Treatment options for ground squirrels include the use of fumigants e. These are restricted-use pesticides that require a permit from the county agricultural commissioner for purchase or use. Fumigation can be very effective against ground squirrels.
The best time to fumigate is late winter or early spring when the ground squirrels are active and soil is moist. Fumigation is also possible later in the year as long as sufficient soil moisture is present, although it is not effective when ground squirrels are hibernating or estivating: When the soil is dry, fumigation is much less effective because more of the toxic gas escapes from burrows through cracks in the soil. When using a fumigant, make sure to treat all active burrow systems in and around the crop field.
Recheck all areas a few days after fumigation and re-treat any that have been reopened. For safety's sake, do not fumigate burrow systems that are adjacent to buildings or may open under structures. A relatively easy way to fumigate is with the use of gas cartridges. They are available commercially and from some county agricultural commissioners' offices.
Use one or two cartridges for each burrow that shows signs of activity. A large burrow system may require more than two. Be sure to understand the current restrictions in place before using for ground squirrel control. Application personnel should be trained in the material's proper use and on its potential hazards.
As of 1 January , pressurized exhaust machines can now be used to apply carbon monoxide to burrow systems. As of , the author is aware of two commercial products available: The Cheetah rodent control machine did not prove to be effective. Plans are in place to further test these devices in the future. Poison bait is usually the most cost-effective method for controlling ground squirrels, especially when numbers are high. Bait consists of grain or pellets treated with a poison registered for ground squirrel control. To be effective, bait must be used at a time of year when ground squirrels are feeding on seeds and will readily accept baits such as in late spring or early summer.
In fall, ground squirrels store a lot of the seed instead of eating them, so it may require more bait to control the population. Before you use baits, place a small amount of untreated grain, such as breakfast oats, near burrows in the morning and check in the late afternoon to see if the ground squirrels have taken it this ensures that nocturnal animals have not eaten the grain.
Illustrated Grape Vine Training Methods | Wine Folly
If the grain is taken during the day, proceed with baiting. If it is not taken, wait several days or a week and try again. If in a nut orchard, once squirrels begin feeding on nuts, they no longer show much interest in grain baits. Therefore, baiting programs must be initiated before this time to ensure effective control of ground squirrels. When using poison baits, make sure to follow label directions carefully to reduce hazards to nontarget species. Multiple-dose anticoagulant baits e. Check the label to make sure that the bait you plan to use is registered for the method you intend to use.
For a multiple-dose bait to be effective, animals must feed on it over a period of 3 to 5 days so if spot or broadcast treatments are used, 2 or 3 applications may be necessary. It kills ground squirrels after a single feeding, so it can reduce numbers more quickly than anticoagulants.
Illustrated Grape Vine Training Methods
This leads to bait shyness in a ground squirrel population. These problems with bait acceptance and bait shyness sometimes result in greater control of ground squirrels when using anticoagulant baits. Reapply according to label directions to make sure there is no interruption in exposure to the bait.
Scattering the bait takes advantage of the ground squirrels' natural foraging behavior and minimizes risks to nontarget species that are not as effective at foraging for seeds.