The colours of "over-parlets" varied, but white and black were the most common. The partlet might be made of the same material as the kirtle and richly decorated with lace detailing to compliment it. Women wore sturdy overskirts called safeguards over their dresses for riding or travel on dirty roads.
Hooded cloaks were worn overall in bad weather. One description mentions strings being attached to the stirrup or foot to hold the skirts in place when riding.
Mantles were also popular and described as modern day bench warmers: Besides keeping warm, Elizabethans cloaks were useful for any type of weather; the Cassock , commonly known as the Dutch cloak, was another kind of cloak. Its name implies some military ideals and has been used since the beginning of the 16th century and therefore has many forms.
Medieval Costume and Fashion: Herbert Norris: theranchhands.com: Books
The cloak is identified by its flaring out at the shoulders and the intricacy of decoration. The cloak was worn to the ankle, waist or fork. The longer lengths were more popular for travel and came with many variations. The French cloak was quite the opposite of the Dutch and was worn anywhere from the knees to the ankle. It was typically worn over the left shoulder and included a cape that came to the elbow. It was a highly decorated cloak. The Spanish cloak or cape was well known to be stiff, have a very decorated hood and was worn to the hip or waist. The over-gown for women was very plain and worn loosely to the floor or ankle length.
The Juppe had a relation to the safeguard and they would usually be worn together. The Juppe replaced the Dutch Cloak and was most likely a loose form of the doublet.
Freely available
The fashion for wearing or carrying the pelt of a sable or marten spread from continental Europe into England in this period; costume historians call these accessories zibellini or "flea furs". The most expensive zibellini had faces and paws of goldsmith's work with jewelled eyes. Queen Elizabeth received one as a New Years gift in Folding fans appeared late in the period, replacing flat fans of ostrich feathers.
Jewelry was also popular among those that could afford it. Necklaces were beaded gold or silver chains and worn in concentric circles reaching as far down as the waist. Ruffs also had a jewelry attachment such as glass beads, embroidery, gems, brooches or flowers. Belts were a surprising necessity: Lower classes wore them almost as tool belts with the upper classes using them as another place to add jewels and gems alike.
Scarves, although not often mentioned, had a significant impact on the Elizabethan style by being a multipurpose piece of clothing. They could be worn on the head to protect desirable pale skin from the sun, warm the neck on a colder day, and accentuate the colour scheme of a gown or whole outfit. The upper class had silken scarves of every color to brighten up an outfit with the gold thread and tassels hanging off of it. While travelling, noblewomen would wear oval masks of black velvet called visards to protect their faces from the sun.
Married and grown women covered their hair, as they had in previous periods. Later, front hair was curled and puffed high over the forehead. Wigs and false hairpieces were used to extend the hair. A close-fitting linen cap called a coif or biggins was worn, alone or under other hats or hoods, especially in the Netherlands and England.
Many embroidered and bobbin-lace-trimmed English coifs survive from this period. Another fashionable headdress was a caul , or cap, of net-work lined in silk attached to a band, which covered the pinned up hair.
This style of headdress had also been seen in Germany in the first half of the century. The ideal standard of beauty for women in the Elizabethan era was to have light or naturally red hair, a pale complexion, and red cheeks and lips. Pale, white skin was desired because Queen Elizabeth was in reign and she had the naturally red hair, pale complexion, and red cheeks and lips. Also, it was to look very English since the main enemy of England was Spain, and in Spain darker hair was dominant.
To further enhance the desired pale complexion, women layered white make-up on their faces. This make-up, called Ceruse , was made up of white lead and vinegar. Women wearing ceruse achieved the white face, however, the white lead that was used to make it is poisonous. Women in this time often contracted lead poisoning which resulted in deaths before the age of Other ingredients used as make-up were sulfur, alum, and tin ash. In addition to using make-up to achieve the pale complexion, women in this era were bled to take the color out of their faces.
For the red cheeks and lips, dyes were sometimes used. Cochineal , madder and vermilion were used as dyes to achieve the bright red effects on the face. Not only were the cheeks and lips emphasized; Kohl was used to darken the eyelashes and enhance the size and appearance of the eyes [36].
- Follow the Author.
- Hockey Talk - Quotations About the Great Sport of Hockey, From The Players and Coaches Who Made It Great.
- The Hive (Com5=One Pentalogy Book 1);
Men's fashionable clothing consisted of a linen shirt with collar or ruff and matching wrist ruffs, which were laundered with starch to be kept stiff and bright. Over the shirt men wore a doublet with long sleeves sewn or laced in place. Doublets were stiff, heavy garments, and were often reinforced with boning. During this time the doublet and jerkin became increasingly more colorful and highly decorated. Around , this padding was exaggerated into a peascod belly. Hose , in variety of styles, were worn with a codpiece early in the period.
Trunk hose or round hose were short padded hose. Very short trunk hose were worn over cannions , fitted hose that ended above the knee. Trunk hose could be paned or pansied , with strips of fabric panes over a full inner layer or lining. Slops or galligaskins were loose hose reaching just below the knee. Slops could also be pansied. Pluderhosen were a Northern European form of pansied slops with a very full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee.
Venetians were semi-fitted hose reaching just below the knee. Men wore stockings or netherstocks and flat shoes with rounded toes, with slashes early in the period and ties over the instep later. Boots were worn for riding. Short cloaks or capes , usually hip-length, often with sleeves , or a military jacket like a mandilion , were fashionable.
Long cloaks were worn in cold and wet weather. Gowns were increasingly old-fashioned, and were worn by older men for warmth indoors and out.
Tudor Costume and Fashion
In this period robes began their transition from general garments to traditional clothing of specific occupations, such as scholars see Academic dress. Hair was generally worn short, brushed back from the forehead. Longer styles were popular in the s. In the s, young men of fashion wore a lovelock , a long section of hair hanging over one shoulder. Through the s, a soft fabric hat with a gathered crown was worn. These derived from the flat hat of the previous period, and over time the hat was stiffened and the crown became taller and far from flat.
Later, a conical felt hat with a rounded crown called a capotain or copotain became fashionable. These became very tall toward the end of century. Hats were decorated with a jewel or feather , and were worn indoors and out. Close-fitting caps covering the ears and tied under the chin called coifs continued to be worn by children and older men under their hats or alone indoors; men's coifs were usually black.
A conical cap of linen with a turned up brim called a nightcap was worn informally indoors; these were often embroidered. Although beards were worn by many men prior to the midth century, it was at this time when grooming and styling facial hair gained social significance. These styles would change very frequently, from pointed whiskers to round trims, throughout these few decades.
The easiest way men were able to maintain the style of their beards was to apply starch onto their groomed faces. The most popular styles of beards at this time include: A baldrick or "corse" was a belt commonly worn diagonally across the chest or around the waist for holding items such swords, daggers, bugles, and horns.
Gloves were often used as a social mediator to recognize the wealthy. Beginning in the second half of the 16th century, many men had trimmed tips off of the fingers of gloves in order for the admirer to see the jewels that were being hidden by the glove.
Get this edition
Late in the period, fashionable young men wore a plain gold ring, a jewelled earring, or a strand of black silk through one pierced ear. Fashionable shoes for men and women were similar, with a flat one-piece sole and rounded toes. Shoes were fastened with ribbons, laces or simply slipped on. Shoes and boots became narrower, followed the contours of the foot, and covered more of the foot, in some cases up to the ankle, than they had previously.
As in the first half of the century, shoes were made from soft leather, velvet, or silk. In Spain, Italy, and Germany the slashing of shoes also persisted into the latter half of the century. In France however, slashing slowly went out of fashion and coloring the soles of footwear red began. Aside from slashing, shoes in this period could be adorned with all sorts of cord, quilting, and frills. A variant on the patten popular in Venice was the chopine — a platform-soled mule that raised the wearer sometimes as high as two feet off the ground.
Toddler boys wore gowns or skirts and doublets until they were breeched. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society — , Abrams, The Structures of Everyday Life, p. Patterns of fashion 4: The cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c.
Quite Specific Media Group. A Visual History of Costume: Skip to content Skip to search. Language English View all editions Prev Next edition 3 of 3. Also Titled Costume and fashion. Physical Description xix, p. Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 16th century. Costume -- Great Britain -- History -- Medieval, Costume -- Great Britain -- History -- 16th century. Includes bibliographical references and indexes. View online Borrow Buy Freely available Show 0 more links Related resource Publisher description at http: Set up My libraries How do I set up "My libraries"?
These 6 locations in All: Camden Council Library Service. Open to the public ; The University of Melbourne Library. Open to the public Book; Illustrated English Show 0 more libraries This single location in New South Wales: These 3 locations in Queensland: This single location in Victoria: