Yes, sometimes you need to look with fresh eyes and it all becomes clear. If you're on Facebook and haven't joined our Sockalong group, it might be something you'd like to do as there's always someone around to help and it's easy to post pictures of where you're up to if you're stuck. You'll be amazed at how easy your second sock is! Yes, I'm really looking forward to the second sock. When using a long tail-type cast on, should I count 2 rows worked flat at the beginning in addition to the CO, or including the CO row?
Incidentally, I'm using the Channel Island cast on, but what do you usually use for these? Thanks once again for the help! Any stretchy cast on will work fine for socks - as long as you can get the cuff over your foot then the choice is yours! I don't know if it really matters where you start counting either as long as you do the same for both socks; an extra round here and there really isn't going to make much difference!
Thank you ever so much for this pattern. I'm usually seen crocheting blankets but you have inspired me to take up the pins. One silly question though, when shaping the gusset, do you repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have decreased to the required amount, or is it rounds 1 and 2?
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Also, if decreasing using rounds 2 and 3, when at round 2 it says at the end knit to marker, does it mean knit to marker and then do round 3, or does it mean at the end knit to marker however 3 sts before that marker do the decrease ie the end of round 2 incorporates the start of round 3 sorry confused! Also sorry at what stage do you take the marker out which denotes the start of the round - inserted at round 3 of the ribbing? I'm glad you've been tempted to try out the pointy sticks! No question is a silly question, so don't worry about asking.
For the gusset, you repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you are back to your original number of stitches. Rounds 2 and 3 merge into each other so perhaps it's easier to consider it as Round 2: On your decrease round which is every other round, you are decrease before and after the top of the foot markers to create your gusset. You'll need to take out your original marker from the ribbing when you come to do the heel flap - it will fall off your needle then anyway so there's no need to try to keep it on.
Thank you very much for your help! I am Pleased to say I have made it ready to shape the toe! However I have a problem. At this stage I have two markers in my socks. FYI I originally cast on 52 sts. My first marker marks the start, however, my second marker, working anti clockwise, is only a few sts away from the first. Each marker representing where the shaping of the gussets happened.
If I follow your instructions and k1 ssk, k24 sts etc, and place a marker, this will result in my toe shaping being top to bottom rather than either side of the toes. What have I done wrong? I started off shaping the toes and when I realised the seams were going to be vertical rather than horizontal, I have removed the second marker and frogged back to the first marker. Was I supposed to remove the second marker when I started doing the foot length?
Even so, had I have removed the second marker, my toe shaping would still be vertical rather than horizontal. Not sure where I have gone wrong. However I am now sat at the first marker, in the top of the foot, wondering what to do now. Feeling a bit silly now, I must have gone wrong somewhere because your instructions are wonderful. Don't worry, Emma, we'll sort it! If your markers are so close together then it sounds like something might have gone wrong with your gusset decreases.
Did you keep the number of the top of the foot stitches the same in your case it would have been 26 and decrease on either side of them or do you think you might have decreased across the top of the foot instead? That would explain the markers in the wrong place. If that's the case, you've got two choices now: To get your toe shaping from where you are, then work from the first marker if you are sure that is in the right place. Just count 26 stitches from that marker and that's where your next marker will go, so in between you'll have K1, SSK, K20, K2tog, K1 on both sides of your foot you have a decrease either side of each marker.
Thank you for your reply. I'm not sure what went wrong either! As I had a marker at the start of the round just about to toe shape , I worked out where the toe shape decreases should be well equal spots both sides and placed a marker, and duplicated the same on the other side so the decreases would be equal in both sides. It ended up ok! I'm afraid I'm not a frogger - all those stitches to drop and pick up Thats the reason I crochet and not knit lol!
It's not put me off though - on to sock two!! If your sock has worked out OK then it's a success! And you'll find that number two will be much easier. Well done on working it out!
Knitting Socks For The Absolute Beginner by Diane Dobson Barton
You should already have one marker in place showing where your round starts, and you place the second marker after your decreases and knitting across the toes. If you've cast on 60 sts, the second marker should be between the 30th and 31st st - ie, exactly half way round your round. Don't forget that there are lots of pictures in the Sockalong tutorials although it sounds like you're pretty much there with your first sock!
This is a fantastic tutorial and pattern, so easy to follow. Thank you for making it freely available - now on the sixth pair of socks and totally addicted! That's brilliant to hear, I'm so glad you've got a drawer full of "proper" socks now! Hello Christine, Today I mentioned to my mum I'd love to get into sock knitting we mainly crochet and I also quilt , she mentioned she'd heard of you over at the attic24 instagram, so I popped over here to take a look.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for taking the time to write up all of your wisdom and patterns, and for you generosity in making them freely available! I've found this post inspiring and reassuring and now I'm even more excited to get some needles and pretty wool and start my first pair! Hello Beth, it's lovely to see you!
There are so many fabulous sock yarns you're going to be spoilt for choice and the self-striping ones are one of the reasons that sock knitting is so addictive! Good luck with your socks, and do shout if you get stuck! I'm on my 2nd sock with dpns, and apart from grappling a bit with the Kitchener stitch, loving it. Must try a circular needle. I've tried a long circular before for sweaters etc, but found the knitting got too heavy, but socks are a different thing. Already planning my next pair. Thank you for posting this easy to follow pattern. Socks are much easier on a long circular as they're not as heavy so you find that you can go much faster.
It sounds like the sock bug has got you already! Hi from New Zealand!
I'm about to knit a pair of socks in men's sizing by casting on 68 stitches. When picking up the gusset stitches, instead of the 19, would I have to pick up 21? Thanks for a great pattern: The number of stitches that you pick up for the gusset is dependent on the number of rows you have in your heel flap.
Your heel flap should be about 2" long you can measure it against the foot to check if it needs to be longer and you pick up one stitch for every two rows. Where you will have to change the numbers is on the heel turn - your set up row will be p1, p18, p2tog, p1. Hi, thanks for your lovely pattern, I have been determined to master sock knitting for a while but I am completely stuck: I just don't understand the turn heel part. Do I just repeat rows until all the stitches are used or am I being completely dense? Hi Jane, what you're doing is creating a V-shaped heel and row 1 is your set up row to get you to the middle of your heel flap.
Rows 2 onwards are your decrease rows which decrease one stitch on every alternate row, pulling the sides of the flap around to make the V shape. After row 4, row 5 will be Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1 and then K9, then P10, then K11 etc so that you're increasing the size of the heel flap and decreasing the number of stitches at the ends of your needle with each row. Does that make sense? Dear Mum, just wanted to tell you that I did as you said and I was able to turn the heel successfully. Doing 2 socks at one time and it will help greatly when I tackle the second one.
Thank you again so much. Hi There Thanks for sharing the pattern. This is my first attempt at knitting socks so here goes my first question; after I have knitted the 16 rounds of rib, you say on to leg part now 'knit each round' isn't the leg part knitted in stocking stitch therefore 1 row knit and 1 row purl??
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Hi Maree, because you're knitting in the round you're always going in the same direction so you only need to knit to produce the stocking stitch. Trust me, it works! Have you found the Sockalong tutorials to help you along as well? Hi there, i'm a crocheter and spied attic 24's blog posts about learning to knit socks, i'd love to learn but i find it difficult to learn new things with written patterns and pictures alone and wondered if there was a video tutorial for your pattern at all? Hi Gwinni, it's lovely to see you! I don't have any video tutorials at the moment, although I think that's something I should definitely consider to go along with the Sockalong tutorials.
If you're on Facebook you could join our Winwick Mum Sockalong group so that you'd get real-time help if you get stuck xx. Hi, Christine, Just wanted to say thank you so much for your blow-by-blow instructions here. I followed them to the letter for the first pair of socks I've ever made and the first time I've used circular needles and DPNs! The worst part was the grafting at the end! Plan now to make several more pairs. Another one from NZ - this time the South Island.
Fantastic pattern, have made a first sample so I know it works. Will pull it apart and complete a proper version. Suggestions - turn heel - specify to repeat rows 3 and 4, state how many stitches there should be at a couple more stages. The pattern is intuitively correct, easy to follow. Nice shape to the sock. My go to pattern for socks now and I tried quite a few before yours. The part I got lost in was after the pick up stitches for the gusset but this was because it was just a sample, will use a pencil and paper I'm sure it will be fine. I also tried it on DPNs, which weren't long enough for the number of stitches.
Do you find that the circular needles come apart at the join? Oh well they're still the best bet. Thanks for the pattern. Hello, thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! I'm glad your socks have turned out OK, don't forget that there is more information and more photos in the Sockalong tutorials if there are places where you get stuck: I love your sock tutorial.
I am a "show me how" person. Your pictures are worth a thousand words. I am working on my first pair of socks. Thank you, thank you. That's great to hear, I'm so glad they're helping, Jacque! I am enjoying you blog so much. I feel fortunate I found it. Especially love the socks tutorial. You say to knit 2 rows of rib before transferring to circular needles.
Is that to say that you will join the round on the third "row"? I'm imagining 2 rows of rib not connected and then joined in the round only when you start with the circular needles. How do you get it connected all the way to the top of the sock?
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Yes, that's quite right, Trish, you join at the end of the third row after you have transferred your stitches to your circular needle. Yes, there is a gap, but you've got a tail end to sew in so you can just sew up the small gap with your tail end and no one will ever know. You can join into the round straight from the cast on if you like, but I have found with beginners that it's easier to rib two rows first so that your stitches are less likely to twist xx. Hi, I learned of you and your sock tutorial on Attic24 with Lucy. She has given me the confidence to try! I ordered my sock yarn and was just about to get my needles out when I came to find that here in the U.
What do you suggest I use? I so wanted to start these over the Christmas holiday but I don't know what to use. Can you help me please? Hi Lori, it's lovely to see you! I suggest you try either a US1 which is equivalent to our 2. When you cast on, just choose a size bigger to make sure that your edge isn't too tight to get your foot through. Hope that helps - and have a lovely Christmas! Hi, I'm so sorry it has taken me so long to reply to you. Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it.
I wasn't able to cast on as planned, I had to order the needles. Hopefully it will be a New Years cast on. My New Year's resolution for was to learn to knit. I can now cast on, knit and purl stitch, It looks messy but I'm staying with it. My goal is to make tons of beautiful socks and hats and maybe, just maybe a sweater or too. I'm an intermediate crocheter and I must say it's apples and oranges right now, lol.
Stick with it, Peggy, and it will all get better - you were a beginner crocheter once too! Once you can knit socks you can knit anything, so that sweater isn't out of your grasp at all: I've just completed my first pair of socks and I've only had two very small sections that had to be unpicked. This was such an easy pattern to follow. My children now want their own pairs. Will it be possible to use a 30mm short circular. They have small feet so I'm sure I won't need too many stitches.
I've not worked out how many to cast on yet. I have a feeling the 30mm circular will be too long. Hello Susan, it's lovely to see you! You've done really well to only have to unpick twice on your first socks - you should be super-proud of yourself! I would suggest that for children's socks you go down to a 25cm needle or smaller - I can't use the smaller ones as they make my hands hurt but the 25cm needle doesn't feel that much different to the 30cm one but you can get less than 60 sts on comfortably. I cast on about 56 for my youngest daughter's socks and they stretch just a bit too much on a 30cm needle.
The 25cm one is made by KnitPro so you should be able to track it down quite easily online if not at a local store that sells KnitPro needles. I have a range of needle lengths in my sock knitting kit - they're never wasted! Hi I am getting to the scary bit ,turning the heel 16 stitches ,first row looks like I can follow but 2,3,4 rows it says turn and I will not have used the 16 I know I am just being dim Thanks for the lovely tutorial x.
Hi Linda, your first row is the set up row to get you into the middle of your stitches and then after that you're just working on the middle stitches, leaving the others on your needle. I've got a YouTube channel now with videos to help - I'm still working on the Sockalong ones but this video from my latest tutorial might show you more easily how to turn the heel: Ha just watched it going to go back to it again and have another look but now I know where I am thank you this is my first ever sock x.
Really nice woolen socks you have here! Yes, that's exactly right. You want one stitch marker on either side of the top of the foot stitches, although you'll probably find that you need to put the one on the K2tog side on last otherwise it will fall off your needle whilst you're picking up the stitches on the other side. If you are using stitch markers, you only need two for your decreases, you don't need to mark the start and end of the round any more. Hi Sila, I always decrease from the right hand side of the top of the foot stitches which, if you consider the first gusset decrease to be the start and end of your round, is actually the start of the next round.
You can decide whether to continue the heel stitch up the toes if you want: Thanks again for your quick reply! Please can you tell me which wool you used to make the purple striped socks in your blog. I've been trying to find it without success. Do you mean the ones in the pictures above? You can still find it online if you do an internet search. Hi Christine I have now made at least half a dozen pairs of socks following your great patterns. How , though ,do you get the great shape to the foot that the photo on cover of book shows?
They never have the fit that yours do. Is there a secret? Is it just bad knitting on my part? Hi Clari, it won't be bad knitting on your part at all, I'm sure! Have you done the stitch calculation to work out exactly how many stitches you need for your socks? It's in the tension tutorial section of book and it's worth taking a few minutes to check your knitting and work out the numbers for your foot. I hope that helps! I have a question which I am hoping you can help me with. I've finished the heel flap and have a total of 60 stitches on my needles. To start with the next part 'turn heel' , it seems that you only need to work 20 stitches 'Row 1: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn'.
I'm confused about what to do with the remaining 10 stitches from the heel flap- any advice?
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Hi Carrie, what you're aiming to do with the heel flap is to bring stitches in from both sides to create a V shape. The first row of the heel flap is a set-up row to get you into the middle so that you can start decreasing to create that V. You can find more info in the Sockalong tutorial for the heel www.
This book is not yet featured on Listopia. Jean rated it it was amazing Mar 21, Cheryl Bontrager rated it liked it Dec 29, Karen Pavia rated it it was amazing May 08, Tricia rated it liked it Jun 21, Erin marked it as to-read Jan 17, Alid added it Aug 31, Cheryl marked it as to-read Jun 05, Rosa Covert marked it as to-read Nov 14, Many shops offer several classes so you can grow your skills and try out new techniques in your sock knitting journey. Many have a programme of classes which run alongside the show and you can learn from visiting tutors who are experts in their field.
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Above all else, relax and have fun with it. At the end of the day as long as you can cast on, work knit and purl stitches and basic decreases, you can knit a sock. Louise Tilbrook is a knitter, designer and blogger who is passionate about knitting socks and keen to convert as many people as possible to the Way of the Sock. You can find her website at www. She also runs a fun and active Ravelry group and spends way too much time on Instagram. Click Here to Leave a Comment Below 0 comments.