It syncs automatically with your account and allows you to read online or offline wherever you are. Please follow the detailed Help center instructions to transfer the files to supported eReaders. Current with Electrical Codes. Sometimes a little repair work goes a long way, as broken fixtures don't always need complete replacement. Editors Of Creative Publishing. Current with Codes through A carefully selected group of home wiring projects that goes beyond the basics of adding a receptacle or rewiring a lamp.
Projects include ceiling lights, recessed and track lighting, under-cabinet lighting, vanity lighting, low-voltage cable lights, landscape lights and motion-sensing floodlights. Pull all the wires you just disconnected through the opening. Screw the mounting plate to the existing receptacle box with the included mounting screws. Remove a knockout from the starter box to create an opening for the track using pliers. Often, the prepunched knockouts have two profile options — make sure the knockout you remove matches the profile of your track. Hold the box portion of the starter box over the mounting plate on the existing receptacle.
Drive the mounting screws through the holes in the box and into the threaded openings in the mounting plate. Set the mounting bracket for an elbow connector Vt" above the baseboard having the track run along the baseboard edge looks better than running it in a straight line out of the starter box. Secure the track or conduit in a vise or clamping work support and cut with a hacksaw.
For best results, use long, slow strokes and don't bear down too hard on the saw. Once the cut is made, file the metal burrs smooth with a metal file. Use a stud finder to locate and mark all of the wall framing members between the old receptacle and the new one. At the new receptacle location, transfer the height of the top of the starter box and mark a reference line.
If possible, locate the box so at least one screw hole in the mounting plate falls over a wall stud. Position the mounting plate for the receptacle box up against the reference line and secure it with screws driven through the mounting plate holes.
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Mark screw locations on the wall and then drill a narrow guide hole for the screw anchor. Drive the anchor into the guide holes until the flange is flush with the wall surface.
Ideally, anything you attach to a drywall wall should be anchored at a wall stud location. Of course, in the real world this often is not possible. You'll find many kinds of wall anchors for sale at the local hardware store. Some work better than others. The common tapered plastic sleeves that are driven into guide holes will work for lighter duty, but they don't grip the wall well enough to secure surface mounted wiring components.
For this, use coarse-threaded, screw-in anchors. Attach mounting clips for the track at the starter box and the new receptacle box. The clips should these marks. Install the mounting plates directly below the pieces the box. Snap the raceway into the clip below the knockout. Repeat this same procedure at the new receptacle box. Snap the long piece of track into the Measure the distance between the ends of the horizontal parts of the elbows, and cut mounting clips. Line up one end of the a length of raceway to that length.
Be sure to measure all the way to the base of the track with the end of an elbow and tap clip, not just to the tips of the connector points. At the new receptacle location, snake the ends of the wires up through the vertical piece of track and into the new receptacle box. There should be about 6" of wire coming out at each box. What if I need to go around a corner?
Use corner pieces to guide around corners. Corners are available for inside or outside corners and consist of a mounting plate and a cap piece. You can use straight connector pieces to join two lengths of track. Much like an elbow piece, they have a mounting plate and a cover that snaps over the wiring. Finish the track installation by snapping the elbow cover pieces into place over the mounting plates, one at the starter box and another at the new receptacle location. You may need to rap the plate with a rubber mallet to get enough force to snap it on.
Make sure all of the wire fits completely within the cover pieces. Cut black, white, and green thnn wire about 2-ft. Snake the end of each wire into the starter box, through the knockout, and into the vertical track. Then snake the wire all the way through the long piece of track so about 12 to 16" comes out on each end. Now you can wire the receptacles. Begin at the new receptacle location. Wrap the end of the black wire around the bottom gold screw on the side of the receptacle. Tighten the screw so it's snug. Tighten the screw so it's and the receptacle into the box so the holes in the top and snug.
Connect the green wire to the green-colored screw on bottom of the receptacle align with the holes in the box. Use a the bottom of the receptacle. Attach the cover plate. Now you can install the new receptacle at the starter wrap the end of the white wire around the silver screw box.
First, make sure the power is still off with your touchless opposite the gold one you just used. Tighten the screw, circuit tester. Wrap the end of the black wire around the top gold screw on the side of the receptacle. Take the black wire that goes into the raceway and wrap the end of the wire around the bottom gold screw on the side of the receptacle. Join one end of the pigtail with the ends of the bare and green wires in the box using a wire connector.
Wrap the other end of the pigtail around the green screw on the receptacle. Once the connections are made, tuck the wires and the receptacle into the box so the holes in the top and bottom of the receptacle align with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver to drive the two long mounting screws that hold the receptacle to the box.
Install the cover plate. You can now restore the power and test your new receptacle. The box may be as simple as a small handy box for making a splice, or as complex as a amp main service panel. It is typically rectangular, square, round, or octagonal, but be aware that the boxes are shaped as they are for specific reasons, so make sure you are using the right one for the job. Installing a box that is too small is an extremely common wiring mistake that is easy to understand: But they are not one-size fits all.
The smallest common boxes, called handy boxes, may be used only for a single device such as a switch or receptacle with no more than three conductors. Be sure to refer to a box fill chart see page 62 to learn which size and shape box is required for your job. Electrical panels function like other electrical boxes insofar as they house connections, but they also house breakers or fuses and other parts that transmit power from the service entry to the individual circuits.
Subpanels are smaller electrical panels that perform the same function but are supplied by the main service panel so they can distribute power into multiple circuits in a remote spot. This shields framing members and other flammable materials from electrical sparks. Electrical boxes come in several shapes. Rectangular and square boxes are used for switches and receptacles. Rectangular 2 x 3" boxes are used for single switches or duplex receptacles. Square 4 x 4" boxes are used any time it is convenient for two switches or receptacles to be wired, or "ganged," in one box, an arrangement common in kitchens or entry hallways.
Octagonal electrical boxes contain wire connections for ceiling fixtures. All electrical boxes are available in different depths. A box must be deep enough so a switch or receptacle can be removed or installed easily without crimping and damaging the circuit wires. Replace an undersized box with a larger box using the Electrical Box Chart right as a guide. The NEC also says that all electrical boxes must remain accessible. Never cover an electrical box with drywall, paneling, or wallcoverings. Octagonal boxes usually contain wire connections for ceiling fixtures.
Cables are inserted into the box through knockout openings and are held with cable clamps. Because the ceiling fixture attaches directly to the box, the box should be anchored firmly to a framing member. Often, it is nailed directly to a ceiling joist. However, metal braces are available that allow a box to be mounted between joists or studs.
A properly installed octagonal box can support a ceiling fixture weighing up to 35 pounds. Any box must be covered with a tightly fitting cover plate, and the box must not have open knockouts. Internal cable connectors and straps count as either half or one conductor, depending on type. Single-size rectangular boxes shown above may have detachable sides that allow them to be ganged together to form double-size boxes. Square 4 x 4" boxes are large enough for most wiring applications.
They are used for cable splices and ganged receptacles or switches. To install one switch or receptacle in a square box, use an adapter cover. Braced octagonal boxes fit between ceiling joists. The metal braces extend to fit any joist spacing and are nailed or screwed to framing members. Outdoor boxes have sealed seams and foam gaskets to guard a switch or receptacle against moisture.
Corrosion-resistant coatings protect all metal parts. Code compliant models include a watertight hood. Retrofit boxes can be installed to upgrade older boxes or to allow you to add new additional receptacles and switches. One type above has built-in clamps that tighten against the inside of a wall and hold the box in place. Plastic boxes are common in new construction. They can be used only with NM nonmetallic cable. The box may include preattached nails for anchoring it to framing members. Wall switches must have grounding screws if installed in plastic boxes. Common styles include single-gang A , double-gang B , and triple-gang C.
Double-gang and triple-gang boxes require internal cable clamps. Metal boxes should be used for exposed indoor wiring, such as conduit installations in an unfinished basement. Metal boxes also can be used for wiring that will be covered by finished walls. Plastic retrofit boxes are used when a new switch or receptacle must fit inside a finished wall.
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Use internal cable clamps. Additional electrical boxes include: Cast aluminum box A for use with outdoor fixtures, including receptacles that are wired through metal conduit. These must have in-use covers if they house receptacles; retrofit ceiling box B used for light fixtures; light-duty ceiling fan box C with brace that spans ceiling joists; heavy-duty retrofit ceiling fan box D designed for retrofit; PVC box E for use with PVC conduit in indoor or outdoor setting; wall-mounted in-use cover F for exterior receptacle.
A variety of adapter plates are available, including junction box cover plate A , single-gang B , double-gang C , and light fixture D. Adapter plates come in several thicknesses to match different wall constructions. Metal boxes must be grounded to the circuit grounding system. Connect the circuit grounding wires to the box with a green insulated pigtail wire and wire connector as shown or with a grounding clip page Boxes larger than 2 x 4" and all retrofit boxes must have internal cable clamps. After installing cables in the box, tighten the cable clamps over the cables so they are gripped firmly, but not so tightly that the cable sheathing is crushed.
Cables entering a metal box must be clamped. A variety of clamps are available, including plastic clamps A, C and threaded metal clamps B. Most are sold prefitted with installation hardware — from metal wings to lOd common nails attached at the perfect angle for a nail-in box. The bulk of the nonmetallic boxes sold today are inexpensive blue PVC.
You can also purchase heavier-duty fiberglass or thermoset plastic models that provide a nonmetallic option for installing heavier fixtures such as ceiling fans and chandeliers. In addition to cost and availability nonmetallic boxes hold a big advantage over metal boxes in that their resistance to conducting electricity will prevent a sparking short circuit if a hot wire contacts the box.
Nonmetallic boxes generally are not approved for exposed areas, where they may be susceptible to damage. Their lack of rigidity also allows them to compress or distort, which can reduce the interior capacity beyond code minimums or make outlets difficult to attach.
Low cost is the primary reason that blue PVC nail-in boxes are so popular. Not only are they inexpensive, they also feature built-in cable clamps so you may not need to buy extra hardware to install them. The standard PVC nail-in box is prefitted with a pair of 10d common nails for attaching to exposed wall studs. These boxes, often called handy boxes, are too small to be of much use see fill chart, page Nonmetallic boxes for home use include: Single-gang, double-gang, triple gang, and quad boxes A ; thermoset and fiberglass boxes for heavier duty B ; round fixture boxes C for ceiling installation nail-in and with integral metal bracket.
These are not knockouts as you would find in metal boxes. In single-gang boxes right , the pressure from the tab is sufficient to secure the cable as long as it enters with sheathing intact and is stapled no more than 8" from the box. On larger boxes left , you will find traditional knockouts intended to be used with plastic cable clamps that resemble metal cable clamps.
Use these for heavier gauge cable and cable with more than three wires. Nail-in boxes A are prefitted with 10d nails that are attached perpendicular to the face of single-gang boxes and at an inward angle for better gripping power on larger boxes. Side-mount boxes B feature a nailing plate that is attached to the front of the stud to automatically create the correct setback; adjustable side-mount boxes C are installed the same way but can be moved on the bracket.
Distortion can occur in nonmetallic boxes when nails or other fasteners are overdriven or installed at improper angles, or when the semiflexible boxes are compressed into improperly sized or shaped openings. This can reduce the box capacity and prevent devices and faceplates from fitting. Most are set for Vi" drywall, but if your wall will be a different thickness you may be able to find a box with corresponding ribs.
Otherwise, use a piece of the wallcovering material as a reference. Use your wiring plan as a guide, and follow electrical code height and spacing guidelines when laying out box positions. Always use the deepest electrical boxes that are practical for your installation. Using deep boxes ensures that you will meet code regulations regarding box volume and makes it easier to make the wire connections.
Some electrical fixtures, like recessed light fixtures, electric heaters, and exhaust fans, have built-in wire connection boxes. Install the frames for these fixtures at the same time you are installing the other electrical boxes. Electrical boxes in adjacent rooms should be positioned close together when they share a common wall and are controlled by the same circuit. This simplifies the cable installations and also reduces the amount of cable needed. Fixtures That Do Not Need Electrical Boxes Recessed fixtures that fit inside wall cavities have built-in wire connection boxes and require no additional electrical boxes.
Common recessed fixtures include electric blower-heaters left , bathroom vent fans right , and recessed light fixtures. Install the frames for these fixtures at the same time you are installing the other electrical boxes along the circuit. Surface-mounted fixtures like electric baseboard heaters pages to and under-cabinet fluorescent lights pages to also have built-in wire connection boxes. These fixtures are not installed until it is time to make the final hookups. Standard receptacle boxes should be centered 12" above floor level. GFCI receptacle boxes in a bathroom should be mounted so they will be about 10" above the finished countertop.
Position each box against a stud so the front face will be flush with the finished wall. For example, if you will be installin V-i wallboard, position the box so it extends W past the face of the stud.
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Anchor the box by driving the mounting nails into the stud. Use adapter plates that match the thickness of the finished wall. Open one knockout for each cable that will enter the box using a hammer and screwdriver. Always introduce the new cable through the knockout that is farthest way from the wall stud.
Break off any sharp edges that might damage vinyl cable sheathing by rotating a screwdriver in the knockout. Place the box for a ceiling light fixture in the center of the room. Position each box against a framing member so the front face will be flush with the finished wall or ceiling, then anchor the box by driving the mounting nails into the framing. Cutaway view To position a light fixture between joists, attach an electrical box to an adjustable brace bar. Nail the ends of the brace bar to joists so the face of the box will be flush with the finished ceiling surface.
Slide the box along the brace bar to the desired position, then tighten the mounting screws. Use internal cable clamps when using a box with a brace bar. For ceiling fans and heavy fixtures, use a metal box and a heavy-duty brace bar rated for heavy loads inset photo. How to install Boxes for Switches install switch boxes at accessible locations, usually on the latch side of a door, with the center of the box 48" from the floor. The box for a thermostat is mounted at 48" to 60".
Position each box against the side of a stud so the front face will be flush with the finished wall, and drive the mounting nails into the stud. To install a switch box between studs, first install a cross block between studs, with the top edge 46" above the floor. Position the box on the cross block so the front face will be flush with the finished wall, and drive the mounting nails into the cross block.
In the kitchen shown here, boxes above the countertop are 45" above the floor, in the center of 18" backsplashes that extend from the countertop to the cabinets. All boxes for wall switches also are installed at this height. The center of the box for the microwave receptacle is 72" off the floor. The centers of the boxes for the range and food disposer receptacles are 12" off the floor, but the center of the box for the dishwasher receptacle is 6" off the floor. Typical Wallcovering Thickness Consider the thickness of finished walls when mounting electrical boxes against framing members.
Code requires that the front face of boxes be flush with the finished wall surface, so how you install boxes will vary depending on the type of wall finish that will be used. For example, if the walls will be finished with W wallboard A , attach the boxes so the front faces extend W past the front of the framing members. With ceramic tile and wall board B , extend the boxes 7s" past the framing members. The easiest way to install one is by nailing the brace to open ceiling joists from above, if the ceiling is insulated, pull the insulation away from the box if the fixture you're installing is not rated IC for insulation contact.
A heavy-duty brace is required for anchoring boxes that will support heavy chandeliers and ceiling fans. A remodeling brace like the one seen here is designed to install through a small cutout in the ceiling inset photo. How to install a Junction Box Turn off power to circuit wires at the main service panel. Carefully remove any tape or wire connectors from the exposed splice. Avoid contact with the bare wire ends until the wires have been tested for power.
The tester should not glow, if it does, the wires are still hot. Shut off power to the correct circuit at the main service panel. Disconnect the illegally spliced wires. Any unopened knockouts should remain sealed. Tighten the locknuts by pushing against the lugs with the blade of a screwdriver. Thread each cable end through a cable clamp. Tighten the clamp with a screwdriver. See if there is any slack in the cables so you can gain a little extra cable to work with. Use wire connectors to reconnect the wires. Pigtail the copper grounding wires to the green grounding screw in the back of the box.
Carefully tuck the wires into the box, and attach the cover plate. Turn on the power to the circuit at the main service panel. Make sure the box remains accessible and is not concealed by finished walls or ceilings. The task becomes complicated, however, when you're working in finished walls during remodeling or repair. In most cases, it's best to use an electronic stud finder, make a large cutout in the wall, and attach a new box directly to a framing member or bracing and then replace and refinish the wall materials. But there are occasions when this isn't possible or practical and you just need to retrofit an electrical box without making a large hole in the wall.
You also may find that an older switch or receptacle box is too shallow to accommodate a new dimmer or GFCI safely. These situations call for a pop-in retrofit box sometimes called an "old work" box. A pop-in box typically has wings, tabs, or brackets that are drawn tight against the wall surface on the wall cavity side, holding the box in place. It can be made either of metal or plastic.
Shut off power and remove the old switch or receptacle. Identify the location of nails holding the box to the framing member and cut the nails with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw with a metal blade inserted between the box and the stud. Pop-in boxes for remodeling come in variety of styles. For walls, they include plastic retrofit boxes with flip-out wings A , metal or plastic boxes with compression tabs or brackets B , metal retrofit boxes with flip-out wings C , and metal boxes with bendable brackets, also known as F-straps, D.
For ceilings, plastic fixture boxes with flip-out wings E are available. BOX Bind the cable ends together and attach string in case they fall into the wall cavity when the old box is removed. Disconnect the cable clamps and slide the old box out. Install a new pop-in box see next page. Puncture the wallboard with the tip of a wallboard saw or by drilling a small hole inside the lines, and make the cutout for the box. Pull NM cable through a knockout in the box no cable clamp is required with a plastic box; just be sure not to break the pressure tab that holds the cable in place.
Insert the box into the cutout so the tabs are flush against the wall surface. Tighten the screws that cause the flip-out wings to pivot right until the box is held firmly in place. Connect the switch or receptacle that the box will house. Feed cable into the new box and secure it in the opening after clamping the cables.
With this pop-in box, bracket arms are inserted at the sides of the box top and then bent around the front edges to secure the box in the opening bottom. The main service panel usually is found in the basement, garage, or utility area, and can be identified by its metal casing. Before making any repair to your electrical system, you must shut off power to the correct circuit at the main service panel.
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The service panel should be indexed page 22 so circuits can be identified easily. Service panels vary in appearance, depending on the age of the system. Very old wiring may operate on amp service that has only two circuits. New homes can have amp service with 30 or more circuits. Find the size of the service by reading the amperage rating printed on the main fuse block or main circuit breaker.
Regardless of age, all service panels have fuses or circuit breakers pages 78 to 81 that control each circuit and protect them from overloads. In general, older service panels use fuses, while newer service panels use circuit breakers. In addition to the main service panel, your electrical system may have a subpanel that controls some of the circuits in the home.
A subpanel has its own circuit breakers or fuses and is installed to control circuits that have been added to an existing wiring system. The subpanel resembles the main service panel but is usually smaller. It may be located near the main panel, or it may be found near the areas served by the new circuits.
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Garages and basements that have been updated often have their own subpanels. If your home has a subpanel, make sure that its circuits are indexed correctly. When handling fuses or circuit breakers, make sure the area around the service panel is dry. Never remove the protective cover on the service panel. After turning off a circuit to make electrical repairs, remember to always test the circuit for power before touching any wires.
The main service panel is the heart of your wiring system. As our demand for household energy has increased, the panels have also grown in capacity. Today, a amp panel is considered the minimum for new construction. A circuit breaker panel is housed in a gray metal cabinet that contains two rows of individual circuit breakers. The size of the service can be identified by reading the amperage rating of the main circuit breaker, which is located at the top or bottom of the main service panel.
A amp service panel is now the minimum standard for all new housing.
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It is considered adequate for a medium-sized house with no more than three major electric appliances. However, larger houses with more electrical appliances require a service panel that provides amps or more. To shut off power to individual circuits in a circuit breaker panel, flip the lever on the appropriate circuit breaker to the OFF position.
To shut off the power to the entire house, turn the main circuit breaker to the OFF position. It usually is housed in a gray metal cabinet that contains four individual plug fuses, plus one or two pull-out fuse blocks that hold cartridge fuses. This type of panel is regarded as adequate for a small, 1,square-foot house that has no more than one volt appliance. Many homeowners update amp service to amps or more so that additional lighting and appliance circuits can be added to the system. Home loan programs also may require that amp service be updated before a home can qualify for financing.
To shut off power to a circuit, carefully unscrew the plug fuse, touching only its insulated rim. To shut off power to the entire house, hold the handle of the main fuse block and pull sharply to remove it. Major appliance circuits are controlled with another cartridge fuse block.
Shut off the appliance circuit by pulling out this fuse block. It divides the current into branch circuits that are carried throughout the house. Each branch circuit is controlled by a circuit breaker that protects the wires from dangerous current overloads. When installing new circuits, the last step is to connect the wires to new circuit breakers at the panel.
Working inside a circuit breaker panel is not dangerous if you follow basic safety procedures. Always shut off the main circuit breaker and test for power before touching any parts inside the panel, and never touch the service wire lugs. If unsure of your own skills, hire an electrician to make the final circuit connections.
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If you have an older electrical service with fuses instead of circuit breakers, always have an electrician make these final hookups. If the main circuit breaker panel does not have enough open slots to hold new circuit breakers, install a subpanel pages to This job is well within the skill level of an experienced do-it-yourselfer, Slimline circuit breakers require half as much space as standard single-pole breakers.
Slimlines can be used to make room for added circuits. Grounding bus bar has terminals for linking grounding wires to the main grounding conductor. It is bonded to the neutral bus bar. Main circuit breaker panel distributes the power entering the home into branch circuits. Neutral service wire carries current back to the power source after it has passed through the home.
These wires are always HOT. Main circuit breaker protects the hot service wires from overloads and transfers power to two hot bus bars. Neutral bus bar has setscrew terminals for linking all neutral circuit wires to the neutral service wire. Subpanel feeder breaker is a double-pole breaker, usually 30 to 50 amps.
Two hot bus bars run through the center of the panel, supplying power to the circuit breakers. Each carries volts. Grounding conductor leads to metal grounding rods driven into the earth. Before installing any new wiring, evaluate your electrical service to make sure it provides enough current to support both the existing wiring and any new circuits.
If your service does not provide enough power, have an electrician upgrade it to a higher amp rating. During the upgrade, the electrician will install a new circuit breaker panel with enough extra breaker slots for the new circuits you want to install. Safety Warning Never touch any parts inside a circuit breaker panel until you have checked for power page Circuit breaker panels differ in appearance, depending on the manufacturer.
Never begin work in a circuit breaker panel until you understand its layout and can identify the parts. Circuit breaker subpanel can be installed when the main circuit breaker panel does not have enough space to hold circuit breakers for new circuits you want to install. Two hot feeder wires supply volts of power to the two hot bus bars. Neutral feeder wire connects the neutral bus bar in the subpanel to the neutral bus bar in the main service panel. Neutral bus bar has setscrew terminals for linking neutral circuit wires to the neutral feed wire.
Single-pole circuit breaker transfers volts of power from one hot bus bar to the black hot wire in a two-wire cable. Grounding bus bar has setscrew terminals for connecting circuit grounding wires. In a circuit breaker subpanel, the grounding bus bar is not bonded to the neutral bus bar. Two hot bus bars pass through the center of the service panel, supplying power to the individual circuit breakers. Each carries volts of power. Double-pole breaker wired for volts transfers power from both hot bus bars to white and black hot wires in a two-wire cable.
A volt circuit has no neutral wire connection; the white wire is tagged with black tape to identify it as a hot wire. Fuses and circuit breakers are located in the main service panel. Most service panels installed before rely on fuses to control and protect individual circuits. Screw-in plug fuses protect volt circuits that power lights and receptacles. Cartridge fuses protect volt appliance circuits and the main shutoff of the service panel. Inside each fuse is a current-carrying metal alloy ribbon. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal ribbon melts and stops the flow of power. A fuse must match the amperage rating of the circuit.
Never replace a fuse with one that has a larger amperage rating. In most service panels installed after , circuit breakers protect and control individual circuits. Single-pole circuit breakers protect volt circuits, and double-pole circuit breakers protect volt circuits. Amperage ratings for circuit breakers range from 15 to amps. Each circuit breaker has a permanent metal strip that heats up and bends when voltage passes through it. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal strip inside the breaker bends enough to "trip" the switch and stop the flow of power.
Circuit breakers are listed to trip twice. After the second trip they weaken and tend to nuisance trip at lower currents. Replace breakers that have tripped more than twice — they may fail. Worn circuit breakers should be replaced by an electrician. When a fuse blows or a circuit breaker trips, it is usually because there are too many light fixtures and plug-in appliances drawing power through the circuit.
Move some of the plug-in appliances to another circuit, then replace the fuse or reset the breaker. If the fuse blows or the breaker trips again immediately, there may be a short circuit in the system. Call a licensed electrician if you suspect a short circuit. Single-pole breakers control volt circuits.
Double-pole breakers rated for 20 to 60 amps control volt circuits. Ground-fault circuit interrupter GFCI and arc-fault circuit interrupter AFCI breakers provide protection from shocks and fire-causing arcs for the entire circuit. Fuses are used in older service panels. Plug fuses usually control volt circuits rated for 15, 20, or 30 amps. Tamper-proof plug fuses have threads that fit only matching sockets, making it impossible to install a wrong-sized fuse.
Time-delay fuses absorb temporary heavy power loads without blowing. Cartridge fuses control volt circuits and range from 30 to amps. Replace it with a fuse that has the same was overloaded. If window is discolored left , there was a amperage rating, short circuit. If the tester glows, the fuse is pulling sharply. If not, install a new fuse with the same amperage rating. The lever on the by pressing the circuit breaker lever by pushing the TEST button. This all-inclusive guide features sections on: Basic skills, including an overview of electricity and wiring safety Wire, cable, and conduitsBoxes and panelsSwitchesReceptaclesFoolproof circuit maps for 30 common wiring set-upsStep-by-step walkthroughs of essential home wiring and electrical repair projects Now in its sixth edition, it has most importantly been updated to comply with National Electric Codes, but in addition, nearly 1, accompanying photos offer up-to-date depictions of modern materials and fixtures.
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