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The Tsaatan are the last remnants of a once-thriving community of reindeer herders inhabiting the landscape north of the Ushkin Uver of the Mongolian grasslands.

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Under increasing pressure from a number of factors, including a reduction in grazing range for reindeer, their population today hovers at a perilously low individuals. We want to document that way of life before change overtakes it. Starting the summer before last, Fitzhugh and his team of anthropologists, botanists, entomologists, paleoecologists and biologists began making the two-day horseback trip from the nearest Mongolian city, Muren, to spend several weeks with the Tsaatan.

Scientists cast tall shadows but find themselves hard pressed to explain the blues to Mongolians

They are attempting nothing less than documenting everything from Tsaatan archaeology to contemporary culture. In addition to the treatments she employs for ailing humans, many of her remedies are also used to treat sick reindeer. In the meantime, the deer stone remains singularly evocative. The pursed lips of the ancient visage, Fitzhugh believes, may depict the rounded mouth of a shaman, perhaps blowing evil spirits away. The back of the stone is equally intriguing. Carved on a monolith at a point that could be considered waist high is the representation of a belt, replete with detailed depictions of Bronze Age tools, an ax, a knife and other implements.

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He approaches the artifact with a sense of urgency. Several have already disappeared, taken from their sites because they could be great rarities for collectors. Livestock rubbing against the monoliths have worn down some of the stones. More extensive studies of the Tsaatan, and of the deer stones, may help us make those connections.


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