Same with creating a mask to get rid of sprocket exposure rather than just cropping during the scan or print. Yes, there's easier ways to do it. But our mission here is not to make things simple but to have fun with our hobby.
Shooting Old Film Cameras Pentax 6x7 20 by Paul B Moore 9781482335439
If doing this is what tickles somebody's fancy then more power to them. BTW, if you're running a narrow film strip in the camera already, I wonder what it'd look like to add one of those half-cylindrical magnifying glasses meant for reading stuff in front, and get a vertical fish-eye style distortion together with the horizontal panorama. Kiarash Sadigh Posted 9 years ago. Edited by Kiarash Sadigh member 9 years ago. The Pentax 67 is designed to move forward only.
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It's not an XPan with an auto rewind option obviously. Ergo, the only option you have is to modify a spool or perhaps use an empty film canister. Use some Dead film and attach it to the 'take up spool-cansiter' So it protrudes. Tape the fresh 'real' film to the edge of dead film and shoot the 18 or so frames.
Shooting Old Film Cameras: Pentax 6x7
This way the film will then advance fully into the take up canister. To me this is probably the only way it would be possible to open the back in daylight and completely stupid and time consuming when you could either unload the camera somewhere dark. Another way is of course a Changing bag. All things considered it's the quickest way to unload and change film on the fly.
I have seen such a 35mmpanaorama set on ebay recently too - end even found a company in Amazon who still sells a ser with masks for the film holder and the view finder - but pleas think of the numer of pictures you have to take befor this invest of app. Just shoot 6x7 and crop to that size - and the camera is never blocked by a wrong film format ;-. Edited by schpleep member 7 years ago. Hi, I'm trying to do exactly as underaglassbell has described with my 6x7 ie. But I just can't get the film to wind on, it feels like it just gets tighter and tighter until it won't wind anymore.
It feels like the tension is being caused by the full reel left hand side, under the shutter speed dial not turning when it's supposed to. This is driving me nuts because the camera works perfectly well with film in! I realise this is an old thread, but if anyone has any insight into this it'd be appreciated. Take for example CT Precisia and a few other films that are only available in 35mm. Otherwise, yes you can just crop. So you have your film loaded in the left side and an empty canister with some protruding film loaded in the right?
You need to make sure the empty spool is connected to the camera so that when you advance the spool inside turns as you advance the frame. If this is done, there should be no reason for the film to become tight, that is until you near the end of the film where it will eventually advance no further - at this point you need to pop the back in complete darkness and manually rewind the film into it's own canister and detach the tape used to connect it to the take up spool.
Paper or film should be fine. But if I were you I would just crack open an empty 35mm canister and super glue some old film so that it lines up nicely with your unexposed film. Makes it very easy to load and you don't have to worry about it being weak like a paper leader. Far more then the XPan with f2. As a poor mans XPan the P67 does the job well.
I had fun for the few months I shot 35mm with my P I was devastated when then were discontinued. Depending on the age, try to bracket your shots. I purchased some Kodachrome before the Christmas cut off last year and spend a good sum of money on FedEx to get it from the UK to the US in time for development. In short, it's a small price to pay. Update re my post above: I think I've got it working. It seems it's a tolerance issue with the converters I'm using to hold the full cassette in place.
I noticed I needed to apply pressure on to the left side film holder to get t to close. This was then putting too much pressure on to the left reel and not allowing it to turn, so increasing the tension. In fact, the system has f2 lenses—which is incredibly tough to find with any medium format camera system because of how thin the depth of field is at that aperture.
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There are also load of telephoto lenses. The Contax can also be used with modern digital backs if you choose to do so—or can ever afford to purchase or rent one.
Pentax has made a huge splash with their Pentax digital cameras; and their older film cameras were also very good. It is capable of shooting very fast shutter speeds, has a bulb mode, mirror lockup, a Polarizing window with the lens shades, etc. This is one of the reasons why photographers love the manual advance.
shooting panoramic on 35mm film | Pentax 67 (6x7, 67, 67II) | Flickr
As one of the latest medium format cameras made, you should know that the lens on the LCA is incredibly sharp and the camera is fairly well built. But there are also problems like putting a filter on the front. That indeed can be tough but a bit of DIY hacking can get it done really affordably. Sure, there is the Bronica SQ-A that was also very good and is a favorite of many photographers—but the C still receives lots of support. You can use the top down viewfinder, a prism finder, and other accessories to make this camera really rock for you.
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There are a large assortment of lenses you can use, too. Every landscape photographer that uses their Pentax 67 II holds onto it not only out of total love for the camera, but also because they know how excellent it is.