Sources of water are not that plentiful in the Cariboo so branding is the accepted way of sorting out intermingling herds of cattle that populate the wide open spaces of the area. The brands were found to be especially useful when the old trail drives were employed to take the cattle to market. Strays which became scattered across the range- land could easily be sorted out and by means of their brand could be returned to their rightful owner. Even today when cattle are driven to market by mechanical means the brand plays an important part in identifying proper ownership of cattle offered for sale by the rancher.
All brands must be carefully checked by the government branding inspector prior to shipping from the loading station. Ranchers who graze cattle on the large tracts of available Crown Land are required to observe certain regulations which limit the number of head allowed to the acre. By checking the brands an inspector can ascertain whether a rancher has violated the regulation. Range cattle wander extensively where there are broken fences, open gates or possibly no fences at all.
In the winter especially straying cattle tend to gravitate to a "feeding lot" and remain undetected until they are culled out in the spring as a result of their individual brand. Among the oldest in the Cariboo and adjacent areas are the following brands: Nine of the historic Cariboo-Chilcotin brands are shown in the accompanying illustrations. It must be noted that there could be 8 a difference between the time when a ranch started using a brand and when the brand was officially registered in some cases years.
Joseph's Mission was established in the 's but their brand was not registered until The brand for the Mission stands for O. Oblates of Mary Immaculate. There are close to registered brands in use in British Columbia with over one third of that number in use in the Cariboo area. Brands must be registered with the provincial brands branch in Victoria accompanied by the necessary branding fee.
The Recorder of Brands determines where on the animal the brand is to be placed. It could be on the right hip or left hip, right shoulder, left shoulder or on the ribs. A registered brand must be novel and have a minimum of two characters which may be letters, numbers, symbols, rafters, bars, slashes, boxes, triangles or diamonds.
Curves are better than sharp corners which tend to cause infection. Connected characters are forbidden as they become to hard to distinguish as the cattle grow. Picture brands cannot be computerized. Similar characters such as "B" and "8" can be easily confused and are therefore forbidden. A minimum and maximum size of brands are enforced. Picture brands blotch too easily and thus are not allowed. Brands within brands an S within a diamond are unacceptable. The simpler the brand the better is the existing rule. Old brands in use prior to the newer regulations have been permitted present day use.
The brands branch keeps a record of all the brands it has registered since Brands in use and registered prior to are stored in the Provincial archives.
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In some cases the branding irons were forged in the blacksmith shops of the local ranches. The blacksmith starts with a four foot long piece of iron which is approximately half an inch in width and a quarter of an inch in thickness. It is heated red hot and beaten down to an eighth of an inch in thickness then shaped to the chosen design of the brand.
The handle is usually rounded. To supplement branding, one or both ears are marked. These ear cuts act as a double check and often eliminate the necessity of a rider having to locate the brand mark which might have been partially grown over or otherwise hidden from view. Ear-cuts in the Cariboo tend to be on the way out. Unfortunately to prove the changing of a brand by cattle rustlers it is first necessary to kill the animal in question. A burned over brand shows plainly on the inside of the hide. The old scar tissue leaves a different colour and texture from the new one on the under side of the hide.
To cross out a brand legally the new owner of an animal might burn a straight line through the old brand and place a new brand directly under the old one or the discarded brand might be repeated under itself to show that it is in-operative and the new brand can then be burned alongside. Branding inspectors have a great responsibility and are usually very knowledgeable in regard to brands. In Williams Lake an early and well known branding inspector was Billie Pinchbeck. Probably the branding inspector who became best known and highly respected in the area was Joe Smith who passed away in shortly after his retirement.
Other large cattle spreads in the Cariboo deserving brief mention are those of R. For over a century and a quarter the cattle brand has performed a very important task in assisting the ranchers to do business. Don Sale taught in the Cariboo for severed years prior to enlisting in the army in W. He has been a citizen of Nanaimo for many years, where he is very active in numerous organizations. He is currently Corresponding Secretary for the B. William Lake Tribune Newspaper 2. Mrs Irene Stangoe - Cariboo Historian. Historic Ccuiboo-ChUcxtin brands The region has a number of cattle brands either in use for much of the past century or linked to historical figures.
Middle row left is the brand registered in by St. Joseph's Mission and now used by the Onward Ranch; an Alkali Lake brand registered in ; and the Hance family brand right registered in and used at Hanceville s TH ranch ever since. At bottom left is a brand registered by a Fosberry in ; Franki Johnson and Charles Spahan 's brand used on their Alkali ranch since ; cmd right Loyd West and Dan Dorrell 's brand registered pr their Clinton ranch in Illustrations by Brad Ward RC. Eons ago, as if smiling too broadly at such a beautiful spot, the earth's face split.
The crack was wide and deep. Rains spilling down the mountains trickled and ran along the gorge until they became a river running toward the sea. Indians roamed the forests nearby and, when they came to the canyon, they also were moved by its awesome grandeur. More than that, the thick firs that had grown up its rock walls, interspersed with cedars, gave them materials for canoes and baskets. Salmon and trout in the river meant food. This was a good summer place. They named it Capilano Canyon after their beloved great Chief Ki-ap-a-la-no.
Then, one day a century ago, a white man came and he, too, fell in love with the rugged, wild beauty of the area we now know as North Vancouver. George Grant Mackay was a Scotsman who was lured by the potential for land development in the young port of Vancouver, so in at the age of 62, he and his family emigrated and began a new life in Canada.
On one of his land searches he crossed the Burrard Inlet, followed dirt trails and found himself gazing down and across the canyon which hemmed in the Capilano River. Its wild beauty captured him, resulting in the purchase of several hundred acres on both sides of the river. Here, he decided, would be a perfect spot for a retreat, a home in the forest, far from the fast-growing city In the spring of he took on the arduous task of getting building supplies to the isolated site and his dream home - a four-room log cabin on the very rim of the canyon - became a reality But another challenge wouldn't let him rest: Defying all logic, he did the impossible - slung a suspension bridge over the gap!
Two Indians helped him fling hemp ropes down the rocky, treed wall below his cabin's verandah; horses dragged it through the foot-wide river, then the men hauled it up the far side. Even though the ropes were anchored under piles of huge logs, the makeshift bridge swayed terrifying- ly feet above the water.
Small wonder that Mackay's family and summer guests dubbed it the "Nervous Bridge" as they inched precariously along on the cedar footboards! Visitors at that time had to be ardent nature lovers to make the long, slow trek from Vancouver. The only steamer, the S. Senator, carried horses and buggies along with about twenty passengers across the Burrard Inlet. On the north shore the only dirt road to the Mackay home gave families a jolting ride for six miles; those without buggies trudged with hampers of food, the ladies in their restrictive long dresses and the gentlemen uncomfortable in the formal attire of that period.
Their obvious enjoyment of the outings, though, gave Mackay a dream of turning his lands into a public park. His vision only became reality after his death, but a series of owners over the years kept his unselfish legacy alive and none has allowed the march of progress to spoil the natural wildness and age-old beauty of the spot. Naturally, with the influx of visitors increasing constantly, the bridge had to be strengthened.
Today, tons of concrete anchor the steel cables which will stand up to , pounds' pressure. It even withstood the devastating hurricane of ! The scary, exhilarating thrill of crossing over the wide canyon seemingly in mid-air has lost none of its excitement for modern visitors, though, as they come in hundreds of thousands every year.
The virgin forest is as hushed and as beautiful as it was when Mackay first laid eyes on it. And the region's history is treasured, its heritage kept alive in the symbolic totem poles which depict the ancient beliefs of the earliest inhabitants of Capilano Canyon. Thanks to the aesthetic dream of the Scotsman more than a century ago, millions of people have been able to enjoy, appreciate and learn about this uniquely beautiful parkland where the busy world outside its gates seem so far away. The world's longest suspension bridge is alive and well as it swings into its second century!
Hobson is a freelance writer now living in Vancouver's West End Your editor was told the story of honeymoon- ers visiting the "nervous bridge" in The bride haltingly asked, "Are you sure it is safe for Presbyterians? On either side scattered young pines. Nailed on one near the road, a sign, "Beware of wild range cattle crossing the road. A magic rabbit hole? On I went, my lunch in a neat, little lard pail so handy.
Along came a fine-looking one horse buggy which stopped beside me on the road. The man with the reins had a pulled- down hat and a wealth of red whiskers. If it hadn't been for the lovely, smiling girl beside him, I'd have wondered about being beware of him as well. He looked me up and down and finally barked, "You're so little, do you think you can walk away out here every day? Yes, I could walk. Later, I learned about those people. Hugh Hunter, a veteran mining man and now Gold Commissioner with an office in Princeton. Margaret was having a ride to school in town.
When pupils graduated from Normal School Teacher Training now they generally wrote letters maybe a dozen or so , trying for jobs somewhere. Some girls went up North - places not on the maps, and some stayed and helped to make a better place - men needing wives - often a happening with teachers. I guess I was lucky, for in good time I received a letter of appointment and an offer of a place to stay. Such beautiful copper-plate style hand writing from Mr. King, head of the School Board of Princeton. My school would be the one-room one at East Princeton.
Not on the map. So, as Dad would say, "I made haste to send an acceptance. Not too many roads, or travellers in cars. So get on the train and it will take you! My sister had gone through Normal and was teaching in the Fraser Valley. Now it was holidays and she was home sitting talking with Mother in the Kitchen. When I was at home going to school, I always had a few small jobs on a Saturday. I was out front sweeping the big front porch and wide steps when a telegram came for me. I left the broom and rushed in to see what it was.
It was an offer for a rural school in the Fraser Valley, near to my sister and near to Vancouver. My folks thought it would be wonderful. What was I to do - ethics and all. I said that I would go out and finish my sweeping and I'd know when I came back in. Didn't take long at all. I went in shouting, "Princeton it is! I didn't know what a grape-vine was till a girl teacher we'd known at church began to phone around and tell that Ruby Sidney was going to Princeton where she herself had been.
So when Mother and Dad took me to the 7: Kettle Valley train, they were less doubtful upon seeing my good company - Beth and sister Mildred Beattie and Sibyl Hardwick. No berth for we'd arrive in the morning. We could turn the seat around and be sociable. I was 18 years and first time away from home, but all were friendly. It was said that the CPR. After the long night in the train we were glad to arrive at the Princeton station.
Such a fine sunny early morning and the air so invigorating and unlike Vancouver. I had read once a poets "blurb" - "the air like new wine," but I knew nothing of wine, new or old. I had had, "tea-kettle tea. And there was Mr. King to meet me so early. An English gentleman, slim and erect with white hair and a small white goatee and very pleasant. He took my suitcase trunk later and led me from the station yard, across the road - not far - to a cream-coloured bungalow behind a white picket fence - Looked nice. Up to the veranda and there was Mrs. She opened the screen door and gave me a big hug.
I had a new Grandma! So nice and kind in her English way. Short and rounded - very blue eyes and smooth white hair. We went to the kitchen to locate my room. The small upstairs was divided into 2 rooms with a narrow stair leading up. King said she never went up there but would leave clean sheets at the bottom for us to pick up, make the bed and clean the room. The front room was held by a Miss Pearl Murray who had been there before. At supper time dinner really in the dining room, a big table, white table cloth and napkins and many hot dishes of good food.
We were always well fed and Miss Murray to meet me. King, at the head of the table said Grace as Dad always did first. As we were eating, I heard him say to Mrs. King, "She hasn't got red hair," and looked at me. King pointed to a framed portrait on the wall. That was their dear daughter, Rose, long-lost and much lamented, so beautiful!
They did have another daughter, Rhoda, married to a store-keeper in town, but the family was living out of town and not often mentioned. Next day was Sunday and Mildred B. We put on our Sunday clothes and, silly me, I wore my new and cherished footwear - black kid, high-heeled little boot. They got put away and I soon had low-heeled comfortable walking boots.
As we went further along, I could see several long avenues cut through the trees and ready for building lots for the East Princeton town to come. Already a store and a few houses. A friend at the Coast was so curious about what kind of school I'd get so far away, even sent me a snap - was this it? How wrong could she be! My school was the Store! Large, brown and unpainted. Several steps led up to the front door with large, glassed, store-front windows on each side.
Mildred unlocked the door and we entered. Very large room, very large heater in the middle, with maybe a dozen or so desks, various sized, arranged not far from it - Along one side and over a side window, a long, green blackboard with lots of room for the many classes. There was one shelf with books called Readers, which would run up to what's now Grade 6. Another shelf with a few other books in other subjects. Mildred showed me the teacher's desk and chair and the neat drawer she'd left with the precious register and all the teacher's needs, including a hand bell. A door at the back led into another room but narrower.
It was now used for pupils' wraps etc. Out from that an outside door leading to a Boys and Girls building. There was no regular playground, but lots of room to run around away from the trees. Time to walk back; Mildred would be teaching at the big school in town with Beth and Pearl Murray. Rhoda's boys, not far from the school, were in turn, the caretakers. I met my young janitor on the first day of school. He was a nice youngster, good-natured and a good worker, tho' at first, the broom looked too big for him to wield. He had brought in a pail of fresh water, with dipper and put at the back of the room for free use.
One took all in one's stride. After school the floor was to be swept and kindling and wood put ready for when fires were needed. There were maybe 10 or 12 pupils at times and such good kids. Three from one English family, Hilda, John and wee Mary. Their father was watchman on the East Princeton machinery building. There was Freddie, so fair and with chestnut coloured hair - and the cutest wee Welsh maiden and so it went. I divided up that big blackboard so that every class had a space and in that, I wrote the work of the day, so that everyone knew what to do, if I were busy. This was put to the test one day when I had to go to the Doctor for an ear syringe thought he'd taken my head off!
One new, sturdy little boy was brought to school - a beginner all by himself and very well behaved.
I remembered that at Normal, we were taught to get the child to say the new sound needed, f. I said, "If your cat wasn't thin, what would you say of it? There was also a lovely girl, Gladys Allison, but she was called for and taken home before winter, as not being strong. I had thought that all that family would be very able and I was sorry to see her go.
King spoke to me in the kitchen alone. She told me to be sure not to teach too long, for teachers got too bossy and well she knew! Also she didn't like anyone, maybe visitors, men or women, to argue with her husband, to upset him. One afternoon Miss Murray asked me to go with her to a "sometimes" show. We sat on rough benches and paid a whole 25 2. I felt guilty, for I wanted to send some money home from the PO. Once when the lovely, Fall colouring was all around, the sisters and I went to a sheltered spot by the River for Mildred to do some water-colour painting.
Of course, in Victoria there is much of that done. I learned from Mildred of the struggle of Emily Carr to have her great work given its due. I also attended morning Anglican Four School Marms: Historical News 12 Church when I could. The other one was Catholic. When I was walking to school one day, a couple of cowboys rode along quietly behind me and until they came to a cross-road they galloped off. If I had been different, I might have turned and waved for a jolly word.
It was pleasant to be with Mildred but she was called home to Victoria to tend to her special Aunt who'd brought her up. The Huston's became firm friends and I sometimes walked across town to visit. I heard many great records there, for Bill was a collector of good music. He was tall and loved to tease his little wife and she also loved his good-natured fun.
They were happy with their toddler, Margie. They also had a treasure they shared - a Bath Tub. Bring your own towels. One Friday when I got out of the tub and starting to clean it, I bent and twisted in such a way as to put my knee out. What a sudden pain! I spent the weekend with bandages and liniment. On Monday morning I borrowed a cane to walk to school, but soon was overtaken by a car full of men, offering a ride. I stood on the running board and hung on. You'd think I wouldn't be inveigled into trying "something new, so good - Fruitatives - Take 2" - Never again with no inside plumbing!
Mother sent me a fine winter coat she'd made beautifully for me, and a soft, fluffy set of tam and scarf in bright orange - all really right for cold weather walking. Miss Murray often walked out to see her friends, the Hunters, and once she asked me to go with her - a little past the E. P school down a hill to a large piece of flat, fertile land beside the River.
Hunters had a large house with a large garden and a man to look after it. The visit was very enjoyable and I mentioned on the walk back that it would be a lovely place to stay. For Christmas holidays, Beth and I sat on the back platform of the K. V train to go to Vancouver. When it came to a slide we had to get out and walk over a great jumble of rocks to a train brought up to the other side.
Freight also had to be moved. A man carrying a box higher than himself, stumbled and fell down. Dried cod fish from the thin white box fell on him and skittered all over. A line of men appeared, each one carrying one heavy-looking brick up high in his right hand. What was that, I wondered? We were late into Vancouver and Dad, punctual as usual, had a long, difficult wait.
Back at school it was cold, and my young caretakers had to work hard to keep a good fire going. The lunches froze in the "cloak room" and all of them and coats etc. Quite a diversion in schooling, but we managed. Sometimes we enjoyed singing and all was flexible. I was warm walking with my new coat and scarf set, but also with "leg warmers" buttoned up to my knee, warm boots and mitts. No loitering with after school work for I liked to get in town before dark's early coming. In Spring we sometimes found wild flowers in the bush. Some I hadn't seen before, and I urged the pupils not to pull them up.
King were not able to keep anyone, thus ending a happy time there for Pearl and me. We must find other quarters. Pearl and Beth settled together well and "bothered" each other. I got a bed in town with a retired teacher and her 12 year old son, who was a big help to her. I had my meals in 3 different places - Several kind ladies offered great help to me for an evening meal, and gave me wonderful meals and family life style. King was devastated on losing her dear husband, and went to live with Rhoda and family in East Princeton. King was much recovered and asked if I would go back next year to stay with her in a good small house with her and she'd board me in East Princeton.
So once again my parents took me to the 7: King to meet me at the Princeton Station. I was now an old timer! It was quite pleasant in the cottage and Mrs. King and I spent quiet evenings doing much hand work. Rhoda wanted to show me how to ride and fixed me up on her"staid pony". We got on fine and went some distance, when "we" decided to turn back home. Sometimes on the railroad track and sometimes beside it and I just simply stayed on, tho' my hair fell down around from the braids around my head. The pony knew, not I, that it was time to feed her baby! Another time Sibyl Hardwick asked me to ride with her to Hedley.
On that mount, I felt a mile above the ground, but we got on fine except for once he shied at some moving paper - Sibyl was a good horse man. At that time, Hedley was in full swing and the gold mine ore cars were going up and down the steep incline to the top. I met a young teacher who told me she lived up top and taught a small school there.
She said it was pretty scary coming down in an ore car with only a partition between passengers and the load of ore. Sibyl and I were both tired and stiff after riding 25 miles each way, but it had been a very interesting outing. On the 24th of May holiday Mr. Huston asked me to go with them to Merritt. It was very hot so we paused at a wayside pond to "give the car a drink. We all enjoyed the trip in their touring car.
Sibyl Hardwick accompanied me to Vancouver once. The Coquihalla Pass was closed with a slide so the train had to go to the mainline and 13 RC. Historical News transfer passengers. A dance was held for the train load of delayed travellers at Spence's Bridge. We did not reach Vancouver till late next morning. My parents had very little sleep, but Dad still agreed to deliver Miss Hardwick to an address across town from our home. In October I had to find a new place as Mrs. King was ill and returned to Rhoda's home. A surprise visitor arrived mid-morning during lesson time.
Mrs Hunter insisted I move to her house immediately. She declared she couldn't let me go to town to look for a place when the flu epidemic was raging. The Princeton Schools closed, but East Princeton stayed open till year end. Hunter, very tall and erect, had been a teacher in Nova Scotia. She liked law and order in all things. The white table cloth and napkins were clean and crisp even at breakfast time. She served me cracked wheat cereal which had been slowly cooking all night on the big black range in the kitchen, with creamy milk from her own cow, Agnes.
We had lots of fresh vegetables from her garden. Once, when eating spinach, I bit on a hard object - a beetle. This I quickly put into my pocket so as not to embarrass my hostess. Hunter mothered me as she did her own daughter Margaret. She would put a "pig" in my bed, close my window and open the door to the hall where she stoked the heater for the night.
I was well fed, and welcome to the living room with its piano, gramaphone, large table, bookshelves full of good reading, and a quiet corner where Mr. Hunter could concentrate on his mining records and other papers. About this time there were many young English clergy sent to the "Colonies". They were grateful for an invitation to a good home. Hunter invited the Anglican clergyman for lunch at which she served a delicious meat pie.
We thought it was chicken but were told it was a rabbit raised by Mrs. The Reverend asked me to go for a walk with him. Historical News down by the river he showed me how to reckon its speed. On later outings we drove to the mine and town- site of Copper Mountain where we met the teachers and a young singer. He gave me driving lessons on the road above the river, always with a "Be very careful" at a bend where someone had gone over the bank. One evening when he delivered me to Hunter's gate he asked for some light so he could see to fix something.
I walked into the house, took the lamp from my room, lit it and held it till the adjustment was made, then quickly and quietly returned to my room. He was my boyfriend till school was out. He moved to Vancouver and I transferred to Ladysmith. I rode the Kettle Valley Railway often during my two years in Princeton. This line had snowsheds, tunnels, and bridges that looked as if made from matchsticks. Wooden trestles were used for 12 years then replaced by steel structures. The workers on that line were very safety conscious, and did their best in that difficult and dangerous stretch of line.
The KVR was my connection with new experiences, kind friends and happy memories. The author taught in Ladysmith, Vancouver and Trail. She married in and has lived in Trail ever since. Previous writing has included two books of poetry. The Hunter family at home. The charming story of Ruby Sidney's adventures while she was teaching in the interior community of Princeton caused me to read through the and issues of the Princeton Star newspaper.
I have had the sensation of opening a door and passing into the landscape brightly lit by the sun of long ago. I could see the little schoolteacher jumping down from the Kettle Valley train at 5: King and escorted across the street to his home. Very soon, perhaps next morning, she would step out the front door to explore.
On her right she would see, opposite the station, the big, white building which was the Princeton Brewery. Turning left she would walk past the Similkameen hotel, then the Courthouse, some stores, one of which was the post office. Turning the corner she was on Bridge Street, the shopping centre of Princeton. In her cozy, upstairs bedroom, through the open window she could listen to the street sounds. She could hear the shouts of the cowboys and the bawling of the cattle as they were driven to the station for loading on the train carrying them to Vancouver stockyards.
The sound of harness bells would tell her the big horses were pulling the wagons from Garrison's barns, perhaps slowing up to a stop the automobiles that would otherwise be whizzing along with horns sounding at the dizzying speed of 30 mph. Miss Murray will again have charge of the Intermediate room and Miss Mildred Beattie the primary classes. The one-room school at Copper Mountain opened that year to serve the children of the mining community of the Canada Copper Corporation. Sadly the mine was to close in for a time due to labour troubles and the low return for copper.
King, the secretary of the school board, was English and had moved to the United States as a young man. Starting as a teacher, he later became an architect and drew the plans for some of the most prominent buildings in Des Moines, Iowa. Later he moved to Lacombe, Alberta and then to Princeton. His last professional work was the enlarging of the Princeton school and duties as government building inspector. As Miss Sidney has told he died March 26, , leaving his widow, one daughter, Mrs. Gibson Rhoda and two sons.
Allison at this period was "Grandma", her husband long buried at the foot of Castle Rock and her family grown up and scattered. She had come to the Similkameen in the 's as the first white woman to settle with her husband, John Fall Allison. Some I hadn't seen before, and I urged the pupils not to pull them up. King were not able to keep anyone, thus ending a happy time there for Pearl and me. We must find other quarters. Pearl and Beth settled together well and "bothered" each other. I got a bed in town with a retired teacher and her 12 year old son, who was a big help to her.
I had my meals in 3 different places - Several kind ladies offered great help to me for an evening meal, and gave me wonderful meals and family life style. King was devastated on losing her dear husband, and went to live with Rhoda and family in East Princeton. King was much recovered and asked if I would go back next year to stay with her in a good small house with her and she'd board me in East Princeton. So once again my parents took me to the 7: King to meet me at the Princeton Station. I was now an old timer! It was quite pleasant in the cottage and Mrs.
King and I spent quiet evenings doing much hand work. Rhoda wanted to show me how to ride and fixed me up on her"staid pony". We got on fine and went some distance, when "we" decided to turn back home. Sometimes on the railroad track and sometimes beside it and I just simply stayed on, tho' my hair fell down around from the braids around my head. The pony knew, not I, that it was time to feed her baby! Another time Sibyl Hardwick asked me to ride with her to Hedley. On that mount, I felt a mile above the ground, but we got on fine except for once he shied at some moving paper - Sibyl was a good horse man.
At that time, Hedley was in full swing and the gold mine ore cars were going up and down the steep incline to the top. I met a young teacher who told me she lived up top and taught a small school there. She said it was pretty scary coming down in an ore car with only a partition between passengers and the load of ore. Sibyl and I were both tired and stiff after riding 25 miles each way, but it had been a very interesting outing. On the 24th of May holiday Mr. Huston asked me to go with them to Merritt. It was very hot so we paused at a wayside pond to "give the car a drink. We all enjoyed the trip in their touring car.
Sibyl Hardwick accompanied me to Vancouver once. The Coquihalla Pass was closed with a slide so the train had to go to the mainline and 13 RC. Historical News transfer passengers. A dance was held for the train load of delayed travellers at Spence's Bridge. We did not reach Vancouver till late next morning. My parents had very little sleep, but Dad still agreed to deliver Miss Hardwick to an address across town from our home. In October I had to find a new place as Mrs. King was ill and returned to Rhoda's home.
A surprise visitor arrived mid-morning during lesson time. Mrs Hunter insisted I move to her house immediately. She declared she couldn't let me go to town to look for a place when the flu epidemic was raging. The Princeton Schools closed, but East Princeton stayed open till year end. Hunter, very tall and erect, had been a teacher in Nova Scotia.
She liked law and order in all things. The white table cloth and napkins were clean and crisp even at breakfast time. She served me cracked wheat cereal which had been slowly cooking all night on the big black range in the kitchen, with creamy milk from her own cow, Agnes. We had lots of fresh vegetables from her garden. Once, when eating spinach, I bit on a hard object - a beetle. This I quickly put into my pocket so as not to embarrass my hostess. Hunter mothered me as she did her own daughter Margaret. She would put a "pig" in my bed, close my window and open the door to the hall where she stoked the heater for the night.
I was well fed, and welcome to the living room with its piano, gramaphone, large table, bookshelves full of good reading, and a quiet corner where Mr. Hunter could concentrate on his mining records and other papers. About this time there were many young English clergy sent to the "Colonies". They were grateful for an invitation to a good home. Hunter invited the Anglican clergyman for lunch at which she served a delicious meat pie. We thought it was chicken but were told it was a rabbit raised by Mrs. The Reverend asked me to go for a walk with him. Historical News down by the river he showed me how to reckon its speed.
On later outings we drove to the mine and town- site of Copper Mountain where we met the teachers and a young singer. He gave me driving lessons on the road above the river, always with a "Be very careful" at a bend where someone had gone over the bank. One evening when he delivered me to Hunter's gate he asked for some light so he could see to fix something. I walked into the house, took the lamp from my room, lit it and held it till the adjustment was made, then quickly and quietly returned to my room.
He was my boyfriend till school was out. He moved to Vancouver and I transferred to Ladysmith. I rode the Kettle Valley Railway often during my two years in Princeton. This line had snowsheds, tunnels, and bridges that looked as if made from matchsticks. Wooden trestles were used for 12 years then replaced by steel structures.
The workers on that line were very safety conscious, and did their best in that difficult and dangerous stretch of line. The KVR was my connection with new experiences, kind friends and happy memories. The author taught in Ladysmith, Vancouver and Trail. She married in and has lived in Trail ever since. Previous writing has included two books of poetry. The Hunter family at home. The charming story of Ruby Sidney's adventures while she was teaching in the interior community of Princeton caused me to read through the and issues of the Princeton Star newspaper.
I have had the sensation of opening a door and passing into the landscape brightly lit by the sun of long ago. I could see the little schoolteacher jumping down from the Kettle Valley train at 5: King and escorted across the street to his home. Very soon, perhaps next morning, she would step out the front door to explore. On her right she would see, opposite the station, the big, white building which was the Princeton Brewery. Turning left she would walk past the Similkameen hotel, then the Courthouse, some stores, one of which was the post office.
Turning the corner she was on Bridge Street, the shopping centre of Princeton. In her cozy, upstairs bedroom, through the open window she could listen to the street sounds. She could hear the shouts of the cowboys and the bawling of the cattle as they were driven to the station for loading on the train carrying them to Vancouver stockyards.
The sound of harness bells would tell her the big horses were pulling the wagons from Garrison's barns, perhaps slowing up to a stop the automobiles that would otherwise be whizzing along with horns sounding at the dizzying speed of 30 mph. Miss Murray will again have charge of the Intermediate room and Miss Mildred Beattie the primary classes.
The one-room school at Copper Mountain opened that year to serve the children of the mining community of the Canada Copper Corporation. Sadly the mine was to close in for a time due to labour troubles and the low return for copper. King, the secretary of the school board, was English and had moved to the United States as a young man. Starting as a teacher, he later became an architect and drew the plans for some of the most prominent buildings in Des Moines, Iowa.
Later he moved to Lacombe, Alberta and then to Princeton. His last professional work was the enlarging of the Princeton school and duties as government building inspector. As Miss Sidney has told he died March 26, , leaving his widow, one daughter, Mrs. Gibson Rhoda and two sons. Allison at this period was "Grandma", her husband long buried at the foot of Castle Rock and her family grown up and scattered. She had come to the Similkameen in the 's as the first white woman to settle with her husband, John Fall Allison.
She now had the time and the opportunity to write her memoirs and add to her collection of Indian legends and lore. Allison could remember the exciting days around the turn of the century when she laid out what was expected to become the metropolis of East Princeton. She was assisted by her brother-in-law, Edgar Dewdney, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province but still involved in sundry real-estate deals.
He was confident that the coming railroad would terminate there, locating the station. So East Princeton was planned with streets and boulevards, stores, a log hotel, and a school which Mrs. Allison indeed taught for a short time. Unfortunately their plans came to naught. The town of Princeton grew rapidly between the forks of the river in the area which is now Princeton. By an irony of fate, Allisons had given over the plot to their son-in-law, Sands, and he immediately sold it to the Vermilion Forks Coal and Land Company.
The company sold it in lots and in no time at all there were at least three hotels serving the hundreds of miners swarming in to prospect at Copper Mountain. Stores and the post office and houses mushroomed. The railway came in and built the station at the west end of town. East Princeton faded away along with Mrs. Allison's prospects for material success. Then came the exciting years of The Portland Cement Company of Vancouver appeared on the scene and built a huge stone-walled plant, installed massive machinery and employed hundreds of men to make cement.
This was to be shipped out on the railway spur just built. A Methodist church was built. But disaster struck in at the time of a world-wide slump which killed the market for cement. The local material proved insufficient, men went to war. The cement plant closed, the machinery was sold and the building became and remains to this day a haunted shell. So it was when Miss Ruby Sidney taught at E. Allison with her memories, we can go a short distance from the school to the home of her long-time friends Mr. Hugh Hunter, on the river road. Hugh Hunter was mining recorder at Granite Creek in He had married the young school-teacher at Nicola and, when the gold rush was over and the government office was moved to Princeton located in the Courthouse , the Hunters moved into town.
Hunter was justice of the Peace, tax collector, etc. No doubt, when Ruby stayed with the Hunters, their daughter Margaret played on the piano the sentimental songs of the period. However, it is Mrs. Hunter's cottage organ that is a legend. When church services were held in barrooms, sometimes in houses usually Irwin's or Cook's , Mrs. Hunter would play the organ. This was later given to the St. Paul's Presbyterian church when it opened in When a different organ was se- 15 cured the 'old' organ was given back to Margaret Hunter now Mrs.
I believe it is still in her possession at her home in Olalla. Incidentally, the Courthouse was moved across the street to be used as the first High School and later, lamentably, demolished. Another among Miss Sidney's friends was the Hardwick family. Hardwick was a Methodist minister who moved to Princeton from Nicola in His daughter, Patsey was the first white child born in Princeton town.
He was overseas during all of W. Hardwick descendants still live on the One-Mile. The Hustons had a store in town, Mrs. Lovina Huston sold millinery and he had a rig which he drove to Copper Mountain. Gibson had a hardware store where he sold also coal, cement, lime and plaster and was also a blacksmith. King is credited with having the first garage in town in and he had other commercial interests as well. Under the bill just passed in Victoria women can register at once and have till may 14th to get their names on the list.
Affidavits can be made before a justice of the peace, provincial constable, postmaster and some other people. Applications are to be forwarded to the Registrar of Voters at Fairview. She must be a British subject or married to one. Nowhere else in the any of the issues of or is any reference made to the subject.
Conscription, too, was not important, it seems. There was a paid government advertisement advising men to register for service in the armed forces. And again this did not merit any special coverage other than to have it stated that the recruiting officer had little to do here as practically all of the men of military age had already vol- RC. So great was the patriotic fervor at the start of the war that there was a serious shortage of marriageable men in the valley.
The ladies of the town worked hard to knit and raise money for 'comforts'. I did not find any reference to any income tax, still a gleam in the government eye. This was the time of Prohibition and here, so close to the U. The road over the Richter pass was well used. In spite of a customs office here freight sometimes was not what it seemed.
A load of hay was sometimes worth much more than a silver spoon, and a load of logs was sometimes hollow. It is very interesting to read Mrs. Forteath's stories about this time in her life and what it was like to be a school teacher when pupils were graded on the Honour Roll for "Deportment", "Punctuality and Regularity" and "Proficiency" As I close my imaginary door to the past I hope to have some more from her.
Historical Federation Archivist prepared a post script to tell us more of Princeton and East Princeton. Harris delighted readers with his article "Memories of Motoring in the 's. Obviously a vehicle with brakes on 4 wheels could stop in a shorter distance than one with 2 wheel brakes. Further details from Don S. Robb of Sidney, B.
A two wheel and the successor, the four wheel braking system, were operated by a series of levers put into play when the pedal was depressed. These levers tautened the cables, wires extending to a cantilever mechanism that opened or closed a shoe embracing a brake drum surrounding the centre of the rim of the wheel.
These were a system comprising what was known as "mechanical" brakes. Early models were applied and fitted only to the rear wheels. The cables often become slack, rendering the brake less efficient. Gadgets called Tensioners were sold as accessories to be used like clothes line tighteners to snug up the cables to improve stopping power. When the first four wheel brakes were introduced a home mechanic occasionally overtightened the cables for the front set causing the vehicle to go "arse over teakettle" when braking.
Hydraulic systems were quite different. Hydraulic cylinders delivered fluid through tubes to other cylinders on the wheel. The wheel cylinder engaged a cam that depressed the brake shoe to effect a pressure, thus arresting the progress of the vehicle. Hydraulic systems were tried on expensive vehicles in the 's and were adopted by Chevrolet in and Ford in At first hydraulic systems were on rear wheels only with mechanical brakes on the front wheels..
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During that era cars were stopping mainly with rear brakes as the task of tightening the front brake was such a dirty job. However, they got caught in a freeze-up so wintered in Fort George and not at Fort St. James, they would take the overland route to the McLeod Lake post. This route involved a short portage from the upper Salmon to Summit Lake, where they'd reach the Crooked River, a tributary of the Peace River. Consequently, in the spring of , they set out for this portage with an Indian guide.
They headed down the Fraser River and upon coming to the Salmon River, found it badly swollen with the spring run-off. The guide told them there was another trail about 12 miles further up the Fraser. This trail began at the present day Huble homestead site and cut across through the bush to Summit Lake, a distance of nine miles. It was Peter Dun levy who established a trading post at the south end of the portage around , who named the Giscome Portage after John Robert Giscome, when Giscome was cooking for him.
James and thence on to McLeod Lake. When the Omineca gold rush began by June Chamberland in , people in Quesnel went after the Government to build a wagon road across the portage. In John Trutch took the contract to build this road, with G. John Grant in charge of building it. With mosquitoes, black flies, and the swampy land, they had a hard time keeping men on the job and could not totally rely on the Indians either. This short distance required feet of corduroy and thirty-seven culverts. This portage trail was used for many years but it became overgrown with brush by the 's when Dunlevy's trading ceased.
No community was established at the Giscome Portage until the arrival of Huble and Seebach. Huble was born at Oak Lake, Ontario in Coming West and being a very adventurous soul, he had tried fishing off the coast of B. Huble, along with three other men, had purchased a fishing schooner. However the first time out on the water, a violent storm came up and all being inexperienced, were glad to get back on shore.
At this point, Huble said "I'll never go out there again. However, when he got there he found that all claims on the Klondike had been staked. It was the winter of and people were starving, there was no food in the country. So he took off from Dawson City in December, an almost unheard of and unparalleled feat of endurance, going across the headwaters of the Pelly, down the Stikine and came to Telegraph Creek where he stayed for awhile. Edward Seebach, born also in Ontario, in Perth County in , was trapping that area too.
In Huble and Seebach formed a partnership and started up a trading post which 17 really did a flourishing business. Albert Huble pre-empted D. He later pre-empted D. They re-cut and rebuilt the old Portage trail and many, many loads of freight passed over this road on it's way to Summit and McLeod Lakes. Edward Seebach pre-empted land near Huble's homestead around Huble staked out many sections and quarter sections of land, there being, around , twenty-seven settlers in the vicinity.
This settlement became known as the Giscome Portage. In he started building a large two-storey squared log house. Each corner was dove-tailed and carefully fitted. Moss was gathered and clay dug to be used for chinking. He went upriv- er and cut cedar blocks to be made into shingles later. It was very appropriate for him to build such a big house as they had a large family.
Annie had brought with her, one child, Ada, from a previous marriage in Ontario. Another building moved over to the big house was joined to it with a breeze-way. This served as a kitchen and was used both summer and winter. At one time, in later years, they had a Chinese cook who would sit in this kitchen and churn butter while rocking the baby in the cradle. The rest of the house consisted of five bedrooms four of these being upstairs , an office, and a big living-room, where they ate, with a pantry.
Along with freighting of goods over the Portage, summers were spent picking wild berries - huckleberries, RC. Historical News raspberries, and strawberries. Clover, oats, and barley was grown and harvested. Days were spent haying, at home and at the neighbours. Huge gardens were planted - potatoes, turnips, carrots, cabbage, beets, onions, and peas. These vegetables, as well as for their own use, were sold to the boats that stopped on their way to Tete Jaune Cache. Huble and Seebach guided scows through the Giscome Rapids which were seven miles in length.
Sometimes a boat would get stuck on the rocks there and they would have to get it loose. Black-smithing and shoeing horses also took up some time, as horses, as many as four to a wagon, would be used in freighting. As well as horses, they had cows, pigs, chickens, ducks, and geese. They also tended store and bought furs from the Indians and white men alike. In the winter season, they themselves would trap.
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Al Junior, who is now 71, remembers as a young lad, going out with his father in later years, to check traps. At the cabin Mr. Huble cooked up a big pot of oatmeal. Next day he sliced up some of this cold porridge, fried bacon and the porridge and "it was good" Al said.
One time, while out at Avril Lake, Albert Huble came upon some grizzly bears. He killed four grizzlies in all, but one that was wounded, mauled him. As the bear attacked him, Huble's gun flew out of bis hands.
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The bear was biting at both of his arms. He was saved by his dog who started worrying the bear's tail. With this the bear released his hold on Huble who was able to retrieve his gun and kill the bear. Huble built a freight warehouse on the banks of the Fraser at a spot where the water was deep enough for the boats to tie up at the wharf. At one time, in the early 's, there were many stern-wheelers on the Fraser plying their way to Tete Jaune Cache - the Chilcotin, the Nechacco, later named the Chilco, S.
Here they would load up with horses, oats, hay, and vegetables and would unload tons of goods. This warehouse was a sort of clearance station for much freight besides their own, freight that would be hauled North to the Hudson's Bay stores at Summit Lake, McLeod Lake, and to the various survey parties for the railroad - Bledsoe's, Harvey's, Holland's, Corell's, Burden's, Freeman's, Bower's, Morrow's, and Weber's, to mention a few, using four horses and a large wagon per load.
This store had a false front, large windows, a varnished office and a home-made fur press which was used to bale Group out on lake, - left to right; Albert Huble holding Sam Huble , Directly behind him Mrs. Young Al, at the extreme right sitting on edge of boat.
Photo courtesy ofAl Huble. He had many items for sale here, one order consisting of a barrel of mixed cookies, as well as ginger snaps, cream sodas, Edam cheese, Beecham's pills, fruit salts, Spearmint gum, one dozen can openers, two dozen cigarette holders, a 5-gallon keg of vinegar, flour, a dozen playing cards, stove polish, a box of hammers, and cigarettes, 2 dozen Lacrosse chocolate, one-half dozen fruit jars, cigars, cork cigars and a box of Mogul cigarettes. Missing on the weigh bill were a case of Climax jam and a case of plum pudding. Another time he ordered one-half dozen men's suits - black, blue and one-half dozen women's dresses - serge - black, blue.
In they opened up a post office at the Giscome Portage but it closed down after two short months of service. British Columbia became a province in the Dominion of Canada in Because of this union, a railway was to be built to the Pacific coast. This would increase business for the stern-wheelers with activity equal almost to the gold-rush days.
Two routes were decided on. The other was to go from the Yellowhead Pass to Fort George, following the upper Fraser River, then southward across the Chilcotin country. The second route never went through as the Chilcotin Indians became troublesome, having killed some men. However, the decision to put a railroad through Central British Columbia became a reality and by October 1st, trains began running between Prince Rupert and Smithers.
On January 27th, , the first train reached Prince George. Historical News the South. When World War I broke out in , work ceased on the P. It was the last season for the S. However, even the BX was not used in , thus bringing an end to steamboats on the Fraser. With the construction of a road between Prince George and Summit Lake in , and the Giscome Portage being by-passed, trading there became a thing of the past.
The place was rented for a while as a guest ranch and in it was sold to Mrs. Walker Mitchell, who also brought up the surrounding homesteads. Together, with Les Woods, the WM. In the B. Government purchased the property and it became a Community pasture. In , after news seeped out that the old Huble house was to be moved into Prince George and restored as a heritage house at the Brewery site, a group of concerned citizens from Summit Lake and Salmon Valley met and declared it to be part of the history of their area and a decision was made to leave the house where it stood and not to move it.
Thus the Giscome Portage Historical Society was formed, plans for restoration made, the land 25 hectares purchased by the Regional District of Fraser-Fort George, and it was designated as an historic park, later to be named the Giscome Portage Regional Park. This park is a very pretty place with the spruce and poplar-covered hill-sides, and the Fraser River flowing by, the huge cottonwood trees lining its banks.
The old square-log house, white-washed and trimmed in green, has been restored and made ready for public viewing, each room being equipped with period furnishings. The freight ware-house down by the river's edge, will, in all probability, be open to the public this summer, , along with the big barn. Plans to build a black-smith shop, meat cache, frame store, and to fix up two other old cabins - one as a trapper's cabin, the other to be used as a gold, Indian and Chinese display with a bit on Father Coccola, who had at one time stayed there, are in the making.
The Giscome Portage trail has been re-cut, using old trail blazes and following the old wagon ruts, which are still very deep. You can now walk, snow-shoe, or ski down this trail out to the highway, just south of Summit Lake, a distance of 7. The Giscome Portage Historical Society and the Regional District are working hand-in-hand at this project and hope to have a truly workable homestead, farm, and trading post established in the years to come. Summer hours are from 9 a.
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We hope to have many visitors in the future to learn of the colorful history surrounding the area. From conversation with Al Huble Jr. From Huble diaries and conversation with Al Huble Jr. Raddlewheels on the Frontier-Art Downs. Martha Huble by Fraser river with the blacksmith shop in back.
Circa Courtesy of Barbara Munk. Harris, long time contributor to the News, received the first Certificate of Appreciation prepared as a "Thank You" from the editorial staff. Harris hikes for history - and shares his findings with readers of this magazine. He is coauthor of a book on trails soon to come off the press. His knowledge of early routes in British Columbia starts with the study of many maps filed in the Provincial Archives.
When he is out tracing a trail he takes many photos, altimeter readings and observations. He insists on walking the trail both ways, then spends many hours preparing a map to illustrate his article. Harris was born and educated in England. He was Chief Engineer for Dominion Bridge for most of his 25 years with that company. Latterly he works, supposedly part time, as a consultant engineer in an office fairly close to hi?
Historical News 20 Letter From Vancouver's Island by Peggy Imredy Pre publications are a gold mine of information if someone has access to the issues. Special Collections of the University of British Columbia library has some of these early Canadian magazines. Careful reading of the communication revealed the young writer was Cecelia Douglas, daughter of James Douglas. The letter gives us, years later, a glimpse of James Douglas' character and events of that time.
Within a year he had left Suzanne and married in a Catholic ceremony, his cousin Julia Woolrich. Unknown to the Douglas family when the letter was written Connolly had died the previous June. After his death, his will leaving the estate to Julia, triggered a landmark court case which had repercussions throughout the fur trade. We know James Douglas as an "accomplished business-man and shrewd diplomat, deeply religious and tolerant" through McKelvie's, Douglas: This recently found letter reveals a father who would lead his children on hands and knees through rose bushes to the top of a cliff to have the exhilarating experience of watching waves dash against the rocks below.
The journey from Fort Vancouver was not easy. Rebecca, the Douglas' newest child was about a month old when the arduous trip began. Five wagons carried the household goods, gold dust, and bales of fur and also Mrs. Douglas and the two younger children. Douglas and the three eldest girls rode ahead on horseback. Thus they arrived at Fort Nisqually e. At the Fort all the goods and family boarded the Hudson's Bay Company's schooner, Cadboro, 7 bound for a new home at the recently established Fort Victoria.
Captain James Sangster 8 was in command at that time. Richard Blanshard arrived on March 11, to be the Governor but left September 9 when Douglas again took over the reins of governing the colony. We can picture Douglas, reading aloud the sections on Puget Sound where the Cadboro was wending its way through the islands.
The description of their haven by Cecelia matches Vancouver's version Port Discovery, named for Vancouver's ship, was not a habitation but a safe anchorage from storms. Cecelia, born in , was the fifth child born to Amelia and James Douglas. The first four had all died within a few years of birth. The other children on the journey to Fort Victoria were, Jane, born ; Agnes, ; Alice, ; Rebecca born as stated above; two more children were to be born after their arrival in Fort Victoria n.
Alfred Robson Benson, M. For a short period, Dr. Helmcken worked with Benson. Tolmie was called in from Fort Nisqually. In the meantime Benson was sent to Fort Vancouver, from there he was transferred to Colville changed to Nanaimo, He worked with the Hudson's Bay Company until then took over the same duties for the Vancouver Coal Company until Robert John Staines became a controversial figure after he arrived at Fort Victoria. His first profession was a school teacher but when the Hudson's Bay Company required the teacher to be a Priest he acquired the necessary diploma.
Although he and his wife thought their destination was Fort Vancouver, it was Fort Victoria where they were put ashore, a few months before the arrival of the Douglas family. In the beginning Rev. Staines was amiable to Douglas. Staines trained the girls and Rev. Staines taught the boys.
Previously Douglas had taught his own children, as the HBC advised their employees 13, and, as the editor wrote. As early as the education of the trader's children was a concern of the London Committee. Primer reading books and spelling books were part of the freight sent to the posts. Books for post libraries were also sent and circulated through the system.
Song of Four Fairies: Fire, Air, Earth, and Water Sal. Happy, happy glowing fire! Sonnet to Sleep O soft embalmer of the still midnight,. Ode to Psyche O Goddess! On Fame Fame, like a wayward girl, will still be coy. On Fame How fever'd is the man, who cannot look.
If by dull rhymes our English must be chain'd If by dull rhymes our English must be chain'd,. Two or three posies Two or three posies. Ode to a Nightingale My heart aches, and a drowsy numbness pains. Ode on a Grecian Urn Thou still unravish'd bride of quietness,. Ode on Melancholy No, no, go not to Lethe, neither twist. Ode on Indolence One morn before me were three figures seen,. Shed no tear — O shed no tear Shed no tear — O, shed no tear! Conrad So, I am safe emerged from these broils! Good, if I may guess. And, sister, slurring o'er. I pr'ythee, Conrad, do not overact.
Trust me for once. That you may be assured. I saw my moment. But what is this to me. Yes, sister, but it does regard you greatly,. I would enquire somewhat of him:. At one pernicious charge of the enemy,. No, nor great, nor mighty;. You'll not be perjured! Go to Albert then,. Can it be, brother? For a golden crown.
Let not this slave— this villain—. Fair on your Graces fall this early morrow! Such salutation argues a glad heart. O would to heaven your poor servant. The Duke is out of temper; if he knows. Aye, Conrad, it will pluck out all grey hairs;. My lord, I was a vassal to your frown,. What need of this? Enough, if you will be. He has not yet return'd, my gracious liege. No tidings of my friendly Arab? More thanks, good Conrad; for, except my son's,. You have my secret; let it not be breath'd. Where shall I find a messenger? O that the earth were empty, as when Cain.
Well, well, I know what ugly jeopardy. Still very sick, my lord; but now I went,. Go no further; not a step more. Was ever such a night? O, my poor boy! Grievously are we tantaliz'd, one and all;. Pensive they sit, and roll their languid eyes Pensive they sit, and roll their languid eyes,. To Autumn Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,.